Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom McMillan, Lee Carter, Rob Robinson - 1978
Page Views: 3,786 total · 35/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 27, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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This one packs a bit of a pump. Move up a crack to the small roof. Load up on gear, pull up over the roof (crux) and find some small crucial gear for a short runout. Continue up to a shallow chimney. Follow this feature to the main rap anchors in the middle of the wall above Quaker State.


On the left side of the amphitheater. The bulges directly left of the obvious crack on Quaker State. This side of the amphitheater gets late day sun.


Single Rack to 3", TCU's, and small wires.


Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
For a better finish, don't grovel to the top in the chimney. Instead, step left after the alcove and pick your way up the pumpy face to the top, finding your gear in the horizontals.

Above this finish find a short, 0.5-1.0 inch horizontal crack about 6-7 feet back from the edge. This is a great place to build your anchor. Please don't tie up the rappel anchor by using it for your belay/slingshot anchor. Aug 4, 2013
Sean M
Sean M  
Fun climb. I'd call it a little stout at 5.10a just because gear is tricky and it's pumpy, but high-quality route. High (small/mid-size) nut placement just before pulling bulge makes the crux feel better, but you still need to make number of moves before the next solid piece, and without the high nut placement would definitely be a little run-out. Classic Moore's style route. Apr 30, 2016