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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aid Raid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tom McMillan, Lee Carter, Rob Robinson - 1978
Page Views: 3,592 total · 35/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on May 27, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

This one packs a bit of a pump. Move up a crack to the small roof. Load up on gear, pull up over the roof (crux) and find some small crucial gear for a short runout. Continue up to a shallow chimney. Follow this feature to the main rap anchors in the middle of the wall above Quaker State.

Location

On the left side of the amphitheater. The bulges directly left of the obvious crack on Quaker State. This side of the amphitheater gets late day sun.

Protection

Single Rack to 3", TCU's, and small wires.

Photos

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
For a better finish, don't grovel to the top in the chimney. Instead, step left after the alcove and pick your way up the pumpy face to the top, finding your gear in the horizontals.

Above this finish find a short, 0.5-1.0 inch horizontal crack about 6-7 feet back from the edge. This is a great place to build your anchor. Please don't tie up the rappel anchor by using it for your belay/slingshot anchor. Aug 4, 2013
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10- PG13
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10- PG13
Five point fun. Jun 15, 2014
Sean M
  5.10a
Sean M  
  5.10a
Fun climb. I'd call it a little stout at 5.10a just because gear is tricky and it's pumpy, but high-quality route. High (small/mid-size) nut placement just before pulling bulge makes the crux feel better, but you still need to make number of moves before the next solid piece, and without the high nut placement would definitely be a little run-out. Classic Moore's style route. Apr 30, 2016

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