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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 892 total · 13/month
Shared By: GWB on May 11, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is the easiest of the three routes starting around the arete from Breaking Rocks. Start in the left facing corner below a roof between Stab in the Dark and Shit Hook. Pull up and out the short roof and continue up the crack eventually trending to the left aiming for the rap anchors at the top of Breaking Rocks.

Location

20 feet left of Shit Hook

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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Getting into the corner is pretty weird, being able to get a really high step helps. A gray x4 protects the opening move well. I agree with others that the roof is pretty straight forward, with great feet. As Matt said above, orange Mastercam protects the roof pull, red was slightly too large to fit in the crack. The face out left is pretty runout with marginal gear but exciting climbing and a great position overlooking the main Amphitheater wall. Oct 20, 2017
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
I've found a tight fitting orange or red master cam is helpful under the roof and not much else inspires quite as much confidence. Provided you find the proper sequence and holds (high feet) the roof is pretty reasonable.

Plus one on Robert's comment about the arete, although I've found that with a keen eye it's entirely possible to protect the arete rather well except for maybe one spot. I did have to place pieces off to the side a bit to make this so - in particular there's a hidden yellow alien size on the left side and a grey alien way out right on the aloof roof face which I had to either runner long or suck up the drag. The arete is fun climbing if a bit subtle. With care I'd say it's probably about equal to the runout on the face. Apr 18, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Don't believe the Carolina Rocks guide book when it says the upper section is a slabby runout. It has good jugs, it has okay placements. It is fairly standard Moore's 5.6 terrain.

The roof pull was hard the first time (fell), and easy the second time. Very beta-dependent. I'd say getting into the dang corner under the roof is actually harder. Not as steep, but thinner and very shouldery. YMMV. Feb 20, 2017
Robert Hutchins  
  5.8
Funny, I felt pulling around the roof was quite reasonable for the grade, so I guess it depends on climbing styles. However, I felt the boulder start was harder than any other move on either route. Pretty fun route if the rope is managed well, and nice to throw in on occasion for a change of pace. If the leader is fine on 5.8x, but not quite up to doing Stab In the Dark, this can also be used to access the beautiful arete on that climb. You probably would want to be a pretty solid 5.10 climber though as the consequences of falling in multiple locations are dire. May 27, 2016
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Pulling around the roof is fun, and significantly harder than Raise Hell, but easier than Super Direct. Small cams (purple/green/red C3s) sew up the upper section. Also make sure your second can climb the route before you head up. Rapping the route from the Breaking Rocks anchor to clean your gear may very well result in a stuck rope. Unless you're into making a jugging system out of runners and slogging up a 95' route to fix your idiot mistake, don't try to rap the route (ask me how I know...) Sep 15, 2013

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