Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,119 total · 13/month
Shared By: GWB on May 11, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This is the easiest of the three routes starting around the arete from Breaking Rocks. Start in the left facing corner below a roof between Stab in the Dark and Shit Hook. Pull up and out the short roof and continue up the crack eventually trending to the left aiming for the rap anchors at the top of Breaking Rocks.

Location

20 feet left of Shit Hook

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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Dumptruck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Dumptruck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Pulling around the roof is fun, and significantly harder than Raise Hell, but easier than Super Direct. Small cams (purple/green/red C3s) sew up the upper section. Also make sure your second can climb the route before you head up. Rapping the route from the Breaking Rocks anchor to clean your gear may very well result in a stuck rope. Unless you're into making a jugging system out of runners and slogging up a 95' route to fix your idiot mistake, don't try to rap the route (ask me how I know...) Sep 15, 2013
Robert Hutchins  
  5.8
Funny, I felt pulling around the roof was quite reasonable for the grade, so I guess it depends on climbing styles. However, I felt the boulder start was harder than any other move on either route. Pretty fun route if the rope is managed well, and nice to throw in on occasion for a change of pace. If the leader is fine on 5.8x, but not quite up to doing Stab In the Dark, this can also be used to access the beautiful arete on that climb. You probably would want to be a pretty solid 5.10 climber though as the consequences of falling in multiple locations are dire. May 27, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Don't believe the Carolina Rocks guide book when it says the upper section is a slabby runout. It has good jugs, it has okay placements. It is fairly standard Moore's 5.6 terrain.

The roof pull was hard the first time (fell), and easy the second time. Very beta-dependent. I'd say getting into the dang corner under the roof is actually harder. Not as steep, but thinner and very shouldery. YMMV. Feb 20, 2017
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
I've found a tight fitting orange or red master cam is helpful under the roof and not much else inspires quite as much confidence. Provided you find the proper sequence and holds (high feet) the roof is pretty reasonable.

Plus one on Robert's comment about the arete, although I've found that with a keen eye it's entirely possible to protect the arete rather well except for maybe one spot. I did have to place pieces off to the side a bit to make this so - in particular there's a hidden yellow alien size on the left side and a grey alien way out right on the aloof roof face which I had to either runner long or suck up the drag. The arete is fun climbing if a bit subtle. With care I'd say it's probably about equal to the runout on the face. Apr 18, 2017
Jordan Angus Gay
Zebulon, NC
  5.8
Jordan Angus Gay   Zebulon, NC
  5.8
Getting into the corner is pretty weird, being able to get a really high step helps. A .4 protects the opening move well. The roof is pretty straight forward, with great feet. As Matt said above, orange Mastercam protects the roof pull, red was slightly too large to fit in the crack. The face out left is pretty runout with marginal gear but exciting climbing and a great position overlooking the main Amphitheater wall. Oct 20, 2017
Jason Hassing
  5.10
Jason Hassing  
  5.10
I feel like this is the hardest 5.8 I've ever done, and I've done lots in my 24 years of climbing. Could be that I just came back from a year long medical hiatus, or I got the moves wrong, but still it felt 5.10 to me. Pro is okay after the roof, just keep your eyes open. There's a block half way up that feels solid, but looks like it's not attached to the wall. Hopefully it doesn't work loose. Ditto to what Noah said on rapping. Sep 4, 2018