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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Parkinson, Cobb - 1994
Page Views: 1,144 total, 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Start on a small ledge above the trail; move left on the ledge to a crack. Climb the crack and trend up and left to a roof, passing it on the left end. Continue trending left to a final roof/bulge; surmount this roof on its left end, where you'll find yourself on a spacious ledge. Move right to rap webbing on a tree.

Location

Starts about 10' left of the Wailing Wall corner. Rap from a tree with webbing and rings/biners.

Protection

Small to medium cams and passive pro; tricams are useful.

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
In its current condition- conflicting beta, lots of dirt and shrubs, no clear line- this route is not good at all. I think if someone came and cleaned up a direct line from the start 20 ft left of the corner and going up through the roof crack we could have a good route yet. It might end up being harder than 5.7 though, no idea what that crack will go at. Nov 4, 2016
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
Rap stations are manky, but you can easily top this out in a single pitch and use one of the bomber fixed cable raps into the amphitheater. Sep 28, 2013
GWB
 
GWB  
 
I did this route late last week and started more to the left than the description (directly under the crack). It was more like 5.7 but that was only the bottom section and not very well protected. It was pretty good and worth at least checking out if the area is crowded on a summer weekend. There is a bit of lichen on the route now but the rap station is well equipped now with 2 steels and a rap ring. May 7, 2012
Ernest W
Camarillo, CA
Ernest W   Camarillo, CA
Agree this feels soft for 5.7, more like 5.5 at least the way we went. Obviously doesn't get much traffic. Aug 9, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Maybe I'm just spoiled by the other great routes in the Amphitheatre, but I found this one fairly uninspiring. Also, it seemed soft for 5.7. The description in the old Kelley guide doesn't seem to match the accompanying topo, and the actual climbing has only the vaguest relation to either the description or the topo. Though the Kelley guide doesn't say one way or the other, it doesn't look like you'd really want to top out on this route; the climbing above the rap station looks unappealing. Jul 6, 2009