Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 735 total · 22/month
Shared By: Benandstuff on Jul 26, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

If you've ever been rapping down the Wailing Wall rap station, and wondered what climb the series of chimneys and ramps are, that is Gutterball.

Start at an easy corner and work your way onto the first ledge. Climb up the chimney and round the corner to the right to another ledge. Belay here. Second pitch goes up the ramp/corner/chimney to the right, make sure not to step in the bird nest funk.

Location

Start is 10 feet right of the start to Wailing Wall. Conveniently ends at the Wailing Wall rap station.

Protection

Large cams help. Did not find much small stuff.

Gear belay. Fixed anchor (nuts on cables) at the top. Rap the anchor.

Photos

Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I think I did this one... It's actually kinda cool.... We broke it into three (very short) pitches, due to rope drag up and around all the corners/roofs. A couple of moves were pretty stiff, but overall 5.7 seems about right considering this is Moore's Wall we are talking about... haha Aug 29, 2016
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
Climbed only the first pitch and rapped off of the tat anchors due to darkness (or was it scared-ness). Really enjoyed the first pitch.
BETA SPRAY
  • The crux: near the top, a short chimney followed by a Head-Jam-esque traverse/roof pull.
  • The pros: lots of easy passive gear placements (nuts, hexes, and tricams), highly varied climbing (face, slab, chimney, lieback).
  • The primary con: lots of bad rock. I was able to ignore the bad rock and find patches of good rock in which to protect, so it goes with good protection. But just looking at all of that soft rock perhaps got in my head a bit.
  • Looking at the second pitch before rapping off, it looks like you need really big gear (at least BD#5, perhaps BD#6), and it looked very slabby and green/fuzzy as well. Perhaps that will bake off in the summer sun, but on this March day it didn't look very secure to my eye.
Mar 25, 2019