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Routes in The Amphitheater
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A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aid Raid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gutterball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Wire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Nuclear Crayon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Step T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,172 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Westlake on Aug 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is an alternate finish to Wailing Wall. Get ready to put your tail in the wind as it's really exposed and quite steep, at the end it feels like something from Sauratown.
Climb Wailing Wall as usual through the initial face but when you turn the corner halfway up trend more right, specifically on the right side of the wide vertical crack spitting the upper face (although really you can go anywhere so long as you end up at the same roof exit). Be careful of some loose blocks and a little crumbly rock as you do so. Aim for the L shaped spot in the roof. To get out, pull the roof on the left side and battle the lichen to top out.
Once you hit the bulgy section, the difficulty ramps up gradually, and the pro gets not as good but once you get up to hanging off the L there's a couple decent small cams to keep you out of danger, although I wouldn't want to fall placing them. If you had a really big cam (5 or 6?) you might be able to protect in a big horizontal just below that. If you head further right you can hang out on a big ledge to take a breather or get psyched. The final pull through the exit roof is the crux move as it's kinda licheny and a bit slopey.
If you run it out a bit in spots and runner well it's OK to link this up into a single pitch but two pitches might be easier on a first pass. Plus falling at the roof might be challenging to get back on if you have too much rope out and your belayer can't hear or see you.
One last note: take care in the L area, as the edge of that horizontal crack is quite sharp, I cut my hand pretty well in there.
Climb Wailing Wall as usual through the initial face but when you turn the corner halfway up trend more right, specifically on the right side of the wide vertical crack spitting the upper face (although really you can go anywhere so long as you end up at the same roof exit). Be careful of some loose blocks and a little crumbly rock as you do so. Aim for the L shaped spot in the roof. To get out, pull the roof on the left side and battle the lichen to top out.
Once you hit the bulgy section, the difficulty ramps up gradually, and the pro gets not as good but once you get up to hanging off the L there's a couple decent small cams to keep you out of danger, although I wouldn't want to fall placing them. If you had a really big cam (5 or 6?) you might be able to protect in a big horizontal just below that. If you head further right you can hang out on a big ledge to take a breather or get psyched. The final pull through the exit roof is the crux move as it's kinda licheny and a bit slopey.
If you run it out a bit in spots and runner well it's OK to link this up into a single pitch but two pitches might be easier on a first pass. Plus falling at the roof might be challenging to get back on if you have too much rope out and your belayer can't hear or see you.
One last note: take care in the L area, as the edge of that horizontal crack is quite sharp, I cut my hand pretty well in there.
Protection
Standard rack, perhaps a few extra hand sized pieces for the right side of the wailing wall face. Tricams probably would work well here too.
Save some finger sizes for the upper crux and perhaps something blue alien size for the final move (although the rock is a little suspect)
Gear and/or tree anchor. May need to build it back a ways and extend yourself to the edge to avoid rope drag and watch your second pull the roof.
Save some finger sizes for the upper crux and perhaps something blue alien size for the final move (although the rock is a little suspect)
Gear and/or tree anchor. May need to build it back a ways and extend yourself to the edge to avoid rope drag and watch your second pull the roof.
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