Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 271 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on Aug 1, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is an alternate finish to Wailing Wall. Get ready to put your tail in the wind as it's really exposed and quite steep, at the end it feels like something from Sauratown.

Climb Wailing Wall as usual through the initial face but when you turn the corner halfway up trend more right, specifically on the right side of the wide vertical crack spitting the upper face (although really you can go anywhere so long as you end up at the same roof exit). Be careful of some loose blocks and a little crumbly rock as you do so. Aim for the L shaped spot in the roof. To get out, pull the roof on the left side and battle the lichen to top out.

Once you hit the bulgy section, the difficulty ramps up gradually, and the pro gets not as good but once you get up to hanging off the L there's a couple decent small cams to keep you out of danger, although I wouldn't want to fall placing them. If you had a really big cam (5 or 6?) you might be able to protect in a big horizontal just below that. If you head further right you can hang out on a big ledge to take a breather or get psyched. The final pull through the exit roof is the crux move as it's kinda licheny and a bit slopey.

If you run it out a bit in spots and runner well it's OK to link this up into a single pitch but two pitches might be easier on a first pass. Plus falling at the roof might be challenging to get back on if you have too much rope out and your belayer can't hear or see you.

One last note: take care in the L area, as the edge of that horizontal crack is quite sharp, I cut my hand pretty well in there.

Location

Same start and descent as Wailing Wall.

Protection

Standard rack, perhaps a few extra hand sized pieces for the right side of the wailing wall face. Tricams probably would work well here too.

Save some finger sizes for the upper crux and perhaps something blue alien size for the final move (although the rock is a little suspect)

Gear and/or tree anchor. May need to build it back a ways and extend yourself to the edge to avoid rope drag and watch your second pull the roof.

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