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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aid Raid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 373 total · 8/month
Shared By: S Tart on Nov 11, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the right side of the huge prow above Quaker State. Once on the prow, negotiate extremely steep terrain for about 25' before backing off on the angle for some pleasure cruising. Anytime there are climbers on the prow, people on the ground should be aware of the possibility of loose rock or dropped gear.

Climb Quaker State to the end of the crack system where it steps right onto the face. Start veering right toward the roof system beneath the prow. Look for the obviuos stance beneath the roof with a 1" horizontal crack at its lip. Pull the big roof and work up and right for 20' to acquire a large horizontal crack with jugs. Work this slightly left, then up to a good stance with easy terrain access to your right. At this point you could break off right and escape the air show up the edge of the prow but don't deprive yourself of the grand finale. Climb up and left onto the prows edge and follow fun moves up the flake/crack system to the top.

Over the top edge, towards the tip of the prow there is a hole/crevice that takes a 3" and 1" cam. Sling both on a rope end or a couple 48's to belay.

Location

Climb Quaker State, then up the right side of the prow.

Protection

Typical full rack plus a few extra smaller cam sizes. Extra slings are useful.

Photos

dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Good route and steep climbing. It needs a bit of a cleaning as rocks will fall off onto anyone below so watch out. Jul 31, 2015

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