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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, Tom McMillan 1978
Page Views: 5,354 total, 50/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 27, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

This is the obvious crack feature in the center of the left Amphitheater wall. Great climbing with an exciting crux at the top. The centerpiece of the area and one of the best routes at Moores.

Location

Amphitheater, left wall.

Protection

Standard rack. This route can seem run out due to tricky placements. However, there is gear available for every section. Get a creative piece for the roof right off the ground. After the high crux, there is a good placement that is hard to see. Many just run it to the top. Fixed anchor with rings.

Photos

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
For the purists who lament the drop off in difficulty after the upper crux:

If you are
a) an onsight climbing beast
b) have the usual path mercilessly wired
c) a masochist

try continuing straight up the whole way, tackling the little arete above the top of the thinning crux crack. Most folks bail right at the end of the crack near the thank god jug but it's reasonable (if a little pumpy) to push on. This probably adds 15-20 feet more climbing in the 5.9 range but it will feel harder after what came before. Stay alert though as there are only a couple of pieces of gear at just the right distance for comfort.

Note that it's very easy to see the path+holds+gear for this option on rappel/lower.


Also, there are two distinctly different starts that I know of and probably are of similar difficulty about 20 feet apart that both end up placing you below the crack coming from the base of the big V. Both protect and are reasonable for leading. Nov 3, 2016
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
 
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
 
The gear is indeed very tricky on this route. It's very safe through the bottom part, but I thought the upper section took serious effort to protect after the obvious .3 placement to start the crux.

Repeat ascents doubtless feel less strenuous to protect, but I got pretty damn pumped looking for placements on my first time yesterday. Oct 10, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.11-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.11-
The gear on this route is great and the upper, easier climbing can be protected as well. There are also a few rests to be found. Sep 9, 2015
Robert Hutchins
  5.10d
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10d
If you are skilled, and maybe a little creative, with your gear you can do the entire climb without ever having to do a move harder than 5.7 with gear below your feet. You can actually get great overhead gear for the crux if you have some skills with tricams, and another more shallow piece ~3' lower than that. Classic Climb! Dec 21, 2011
Heath Alexander
Asheville, NC
 
Heath Alexander   Asheville, NC
 
One of the most beautiful lines at Moores. I worked on this off and on all season. Wish I could say I did it ground up, but I top-roped it before I started working on the lead. Be prepared for a moderate runout at the high crux; the gear is solid but well below your feet. I took the fall a few times and it is very safe. Also ended up with a groundfall length runout at the top, but the climbing is easy. I think there may be some gear after the crux, but I was too pumped to stop and place it. Nov 28, 2011
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive. Nov 8, 2011
Carolina
Farmington, nc
 
Carolina   Farmington, nc
 
Steller Climb! Best Climb I have done in NC so far.... Jul 18, 2011
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
It's safe, but really tough to protect well onsight. The possible big whip is safe, though (so i've heard). Awesome route! Aug 30, 2010