Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
Routes in The Amphitheater
|A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|Page Views:||1,363 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Westlake on May 12, 2012|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionStart up the blocky ramp left of refrigerator crack chasm and work your way up to the wide crack angling up and left. Mostly easy but potentially runout climbing depending on what gear you bring will take you up to about level with the roof at the top of the vertical section of Golden Earring.
From here the climbing steps up in difficulty a bit. Pull up through the bulge above, following the crack up and to the left a bit through the line of least resistance. You may angle a bit left around the arete but eventually work your way back around to the right to connect up to finish with the intimidating/appealing right arching flake near the top. Follow this all the way to a landing and belay. Savor the exposure as you traverse out over nothing way off the deck.
Take care as there is a fair amount of loose and suspect rock, particularly in the upper section. Try to think of it as giving the route an "alpine" feel.
Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, breaking level with the golden earring roof. Rope drag can be a problem if done as one pitch.
Variation: Easier to exit left through the chimney and top out over step and fetch.
LocationBack of the Amphitheater, just left of Breaking Rocks is Hard to do. Find the left angling wide crack at the start, and look way up for the undercling flake finish, left of Zombie Woof.
Climb up and straight back to find the trail. Go left about 30 feet and ignore the tempting branch to the right and instead step down over a boulder to a less obvious choice that takes you to a scramble down to the golden earring rap station.
Sketchy old slings and cord around some skinny trees also provide a possible double rope rappel at the anchor area too but these never look appealing me.
An easy 5 min walk-off option is available by going up and right onto an obvious trail. If you head right you quickly get to the trail underneath Meat Puppet crag. About 100 yard cliff right of there it heads downhill to join the decent gully from the main trail on the cliff top. You just have to take the branch hikers left instead of heading straight down the steep and muddy gully.