Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,284 total · 20/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 12, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Start up the blocky ramp left of refrigerator crack chasm and work your way up to the wide crack angling up and left. Mostly easy but potentially runout climbing depending on what gear you bring will take you up to about level with the roof at the top of the vertical section of Golden Earring.

From here the climbing steps up in difficulty a bit. Pull up through the bulge above, following the crack up and to the left a bit through the line of least resistance. You may angle a bit left around the arete but eventually work your way back around to the right to connect up to finish with the intimidating/appealing right arching flake near the top. Follow this all the way to a landing and belay. Savor the exposure as you traverse out over nothing way off the deck.

Take care as there is a fair amount of loose and suspect rock, particularly in the upper section. Try to think of it as giving the route an "alpine" feel.

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, breaking level with the golden earring roof. Rope drag can be a problem if done as one pitch.

Variation: Easier to exit left through the chimney and top out over step and fetch.


Back of the Amphitheater, just left of Breaking Rocks is Hard to do. Find the left angling wide crack at the start, and look way up for the undercling flake finish, left of Zombie Woof.

Climb up and straight back to find the trail. Go left about 30 feet and ignore the tempting branch to the right and instead step down over a boulder to a less obvious choice that takes you to a scramble down to the golden earring rap station.

Sketchy old slings and cord around some skinny trees also provide a possible double rope rappel at the anchor area too but these never look appealing me.

An easy 5 min walk-off option is available by going up and right onto an obvious trail. If you head right you quickly get to the trail underneath Meat Puppet crag. About 100 yard cliff right of there it heads downhill to join the decent gully from the main trail on the cliff top. You just have to take the branch hikers left instead of heading straight down the steep and muddy gully.


2-4 pieces of Wide gear (Camalot C4 4,5,6 size) depending on your comfort level with G/PG-13/R runout on the easier ramp start and standard rack for the remainder. Save a couple Camalot C4 2 or 3 size pieces for the upper flake section.