Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Howard, Gottlieb, Rotert (1978)
Page Views: 2,256 total · 19/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 19, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

A Moore's Wall classic and a good route for those breaking into the harder grades. Quite a bit of character- a boulder problem start, overhanging jams and face climbing (crux, well-protected), and an amazing if somewhat runout 5.8 arete to the anchor.

Location

The route is in the Amphitheater directly across from Quaker State. It is the obvious crack leading up to a blunt arete. Start around the corner to the right of the crack.

Protection

Nuts, cams up to a number 2 camalot- bring runners for the initial traverse to reduce drag after you get around the corner. Bomber anchors at the top- fixed nuts with cables and rings.

Photos

Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
  5.11a
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
  5.11a
bring a number three camalot Sep 26, 2010
Robert Hutchins
  5.10d
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10d
I highly recommend against carrying a #3 Camalot as it adds unnecessary weight on a steep climb, and blocks the crux hand-jam. There is a great #2 Friend sized placement just below this and an opportunity for stoppers higher, if you want trade pump for overhead gear before you pull the crux. A climber with 5.10 crack skills will be much happier leaving the hand-jam free. Dec 21, 2011