Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Howard, Gottlieb, Rotert (1978)
Page Views: 2,256 total · 19/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 19, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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A Moore's Wall classic and a good route for those breaking into the harder grades. Quite a bit of character- a boulder problem start, overhanging jams and face climbing (crux, well-protected), and an amazing if somewhat runout 5.8 arete to the anchor.


The route is in the Amphitheater directly across from Quaker State. It is the obvious crack leading up to a blunt arete. Start around the corner to the right of the crack.


Nuts, cams up to a number 2 camalot- bring runners for the initial traverse to reduce drag after you get around the corner. Bomber anchors at the top- fixed nuts with cables and rings.


Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
bring a number three camalot Sep 26, 2010
Robert Hutchins
Robert Hutchins  
I highly recommend against carrying a #3 Camalot as it adds unnecessary weight on a steep climb, and blocks the crux hand-jam. There is a great #2 Friend sized placement just below this and an opportunity for stoppers higher, if you want trade pump for overhead gear before you pull the crux. A climber with 5.10 crack skills will be much happier leaving the hand-jam free. Dec 21, 2011