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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976
Page Views: 6,973 total, 56/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Description

This fine route may remind you of climbing in Tennessee, with its long vertical hand crack. Long, fun and well-protected, but the neophyte 5.7 leader might find it intimidating.

Start in the big corner, or on the flake right of the corner; move up until you can transition to a nice vertical crack system in the left face. Continue up the crack until it ends under a big roof, then make a traverse left and up to end at the left end of the roof.

Location

Starts at the back end of the Amphitheatre in a big corner. Two-rope rap from fixed gear.

Protection

Small to medium cams, passive pro. Some big pieces are useful in the starting crack. Build a gear anchor.
Great climb! Very fair and straightforward for the grade. This is not a sandbagged lead. The climbing is smooth and full of definite hands and feet. Protects well, too. That is, until the traverse... But that's part of the deal. It's funky, but a great great time. Don't hesitate to do this one! Jul 23, 2016
matt swaim
Charlotte, North Carolina
matt swaim   Charlotte, North Carolina
Stood up in the traverse and got my head stuck. Had to unfasten my helmet to get my head back. That's a first. Also, a 70 meter got us to the ground with plenty to spare. Jul 19, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.7
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.7
Looking back at this I'm surprised no distinction has been made about the traverse at the top. There are two ways to do it:

1) climb way up under the upper roof and get gear the whole way. This is better protected but is awkward and kind of a pain.

2) head directly left using a good foot rail as soon as you've pulled up from the face through the first roof at the top of the crack. Handholds are sparse and you'll have to go a little further than you like (10 feet?) until you get a sorta dubious small cam, particularly for someone closer to their limit. Still, this is my preferred path as it's not unreasonably difficult and only a couple moves to the gear. After that it's pretty juggy and a really good small cam placement is nearby. This traverse is likely too low to merit climbing up and placing gear in the crack at the base of the big roof overhead as it's probably 10-15 feet above you although I've never actually tried this.

If you take this option be sure to keep followers in mind as the pendulum could be pretty extreme if the gear isn't placed. May 18, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
The gear on the crack is really easy- it is smooth enough to take cams well in a lot of places. The gear in the roof is a pain in the ass, because the climbing is several feet below the placements. May 16, 2016
smurray47
  5.8-
smurray47  
  5.8-
Three stars only because it's interesting, not really for the quality of climbing. Crux as mentioned is about 10-30 feet below the roof, where the gear can be tricky if you don't know what to expect. There are options available, but it's classic Moore's finicky gear, and if you happen not to have the right pieces can be scary. Some #2/#3 cams to protect the traverse are useful. Overall definitely worth doing, but not one that will make your day...if you're looking for a warmup or have time for just one last climb, do Wailing Wall instead. Apr 30, 2016
Emil Briggs  
 
The traverse can be exciting for the second too. Oct 17, 2013
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.8-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.8-
Extend your draws because the rope drag can be dramatic with the traverse. Jun 3, 2013
George Heib
  5.7+
George Heib  
  5.7+
Felt really good. Difficult sections of the route are about 10 feet below the roof. Traverse can get a little sketch for a 5.7 leader, but it is a solid fun route. There is a spot for a BD #3. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge 3 feet off the ground so no real need to double rope this one. Anchors were replace not too long ago. Sep 30, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.7
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.7
A fall anywhere in the first 40 feet of the route would not be clean. A couple extra hand sized pieces are useful.
The rappel is 100 feet. Oct 9, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Great route! The crack section has some committing moves, but the pro is good and any falls would be clean. Sep 4, 2007