Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Rich Gottlieb, Bob Rotert - 1978
Page Views: 1,815 total · 15/month
Shared By: sean barb on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

An obvious, thin crack marks the start of this nice face. Take care to get good gear early and often as the beginning layback feature is a little hollow.

Location

Starts at a large left-facing flake at the right end of the Amphitheater, about 35' right of Stab in the Dark. Rap from fixed anchor on ledge below Finger Love/Zombie Woof (Stab in the Dark anchors).

Protection

Nuts and mid-sized cams. Finishes with a traverse, so rack some longer slings.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
You can run this all the way up the face (above the business end) with the cool water grooves and end at the tree with rap slings. From there, you can rap around the corner to the left and find the Stab in the Dark anchors. Two ropes will get you to the ground from the tree with rap slings. Jun 25, 2012
Emil Briggs
  5.8+ PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.8+ PG13
The gear at the start can be a little tricky. Saw a guy deck when he fell and pulled a piece. Fortunately he missed the block at the bottom and didn't get hurt too badly. Sep 30, 2013
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.8+ PG13
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.8+ PG13
Emil, whereabouts was the gear that pulled? I plugged in a few small things (tiny cams and a couple nuts) on the way up the thin flake and got a dubious #3/blue C4 in the bigger opening that I didn't really trust. My goal was really just to spread out the load with all that.

Above, just before the crux I got what seemed like a pretty good #1/red C4. I hope that wasn't the one that blew out because it seemed important. Oct 11, 2013
Emil Briggs
  5.8+ PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.8+ PG13
Matt the piece that pulled was lower down. There is good gear at the crux but the stuff before that is questionable. Landing on that block would be nasty too. Oct 17, 2013
Sean M
  5.8+ PG13
Sean M  
  5.8+ PG13
Crux is getting good gear in the opening 20 feet, then it eases up. Small nuts help. Worth doing for sure, after you've done the other 5.8s in the area. Descend the breaking rocks anchor. Apr 30, 2016
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This route is best done as suggested by Andy. Instead of doing the business then traversing hard left and up just take it straight to the top. great climbing doing it this way. May 23, 2018
Robert Hutchins
  5.8+ PG13
Robert Hutchins  
  5.8+ PG13
I agree that taking this to the top is very much worthwhile; however, I see no reason to carry 2 ropes to Moore's just to enable rapping this route from the top. Simply walk back through the woods a few feet to find the walkoff. It should only take 3-4 minutes to get back to the start. Once at the trail just take it cliff right. It will lead you to a cliff band where you continue right. Stay on the trail until the short cliff ends and the trail turns downhill. Unlike walking off from Step And Fetch, almost no trail finding is required. It's probably faster to walk off from here than to rig the 2 rope rap, once you are familiar with it. May 26, 2018
Trad Dad Atlas
charlotte, nc
5.8+ PG13
Trad Dad Atlas   charlotte, nc
5.8+ PG13
We did shit hook this past friday and really enjoyed the route. There was some good protection down low, but to get a good view of the placements was a little tricky based on your body positioning. Pulling the crux (the top of the flake) was a little nerve racking as there is some tricky movement and it's little run out. After the business, I traversed left to shoot for the breaking rocks ledge, but after not having climbed the route nor ever seen the ledge, I really didn't know what I was going for.
I decided to take it to the top and glad that I did, because as noted above there are some really cool water grooves (with jams) which reminded me of looking glass. Fun little route! We used the Quaker state anchors to rap with a 70. May 5, 2019