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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Rich Gottlieb, Bob Rotert - 1978
Page Views: 1,557 total, 15/month
Shared By: sean barb on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

An obvious, thin crack marks the start of this nice face. Take care to get good gear early and often as the beginning layback feature is a little hollow.

Location

Starts at a large left-facing flake at the right end of the Amphitheater, about 35' right of Stab in the Dark. Rap from fixed anchor on ledge below Finger Love/Zombie Woof (Stab in the Dark anchors).

Protection

Nuts and mid-sized cams. Finishes with a traverse, so rack some longer slings.

Photos

smurray47
  5.8+ PG13
smurray47  
  5.8+ PG13
Crux is getting good gear in the opening 20 feet, then it eases up. Small nuts help. Worth doing for sure, after you've done the other 5.8s in the area. Descend the breaking rocks anchor. Apr 30, 2016
Emil Briggs
  5.8+ PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.8+ PG13
Matt the piece that pulled was lower down. There is good gear at the crux but the stuff before that is questionable. Landing on that block would be nasty too. Oct 17, 2013
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.8+ PG13
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.8+ PG13
Emil, whereabouts was the gear that pulled? I plugged in a few small things (tiny cams and a couple nuts) on the way up the thin flake and got a dubious #3/blue C4 in the bigger opening that I didn't really trust. My goal was really just to spread out the load with all that.

Above, just before the crux I got what seemed like a pretty good #1/red C4. I hope that wasn't the one that blew out because it seemed important. Oct 11, 2013
Emil Briggs
  5.8+ PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.8+ PG13
The gear at the start can be a little tricky. Saw a guy deck when he fell and pulled a piece. Fortunately he missed the block at the bottom and didn't get hurt too badly. Sep 30, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
You can run this all the way up the face (above the business end) with the cool water grooves and end at the tree with rap slings. From there, you can rap around the corner to the left and find the Stab in the Dark anchors. Two ropes will get you to the ground from the tree with rap slings. Jun 25, 2012