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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aid Raid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 795 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 13, 2012 with updates from Robert Hutchins
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Fun face and crack climb alternative to the corner offered by Doan's Pills. Hike up the slab to the face and start working your way up the central vertical crack. Moderate moves take you to an interesting crux bulge that guards the final 10 feet or so before getting into the traverse. If you have enough small gear it protects quite well and is probably aidable if necessary.

Look out for the loose brick lodged midway up the face, not sure if it'd come loose but it wobbled when I stepped on it.

Topping out the vertical crack leads to a second "mini pitch" of totally different character. Make a burly traverse, finagling your way out right to the exit corner. Probably good training if you are eyeing Zombie Woof...

Has a lot in common with Doan's Pills, so see that page for related beta.

Location

Atop the landing where Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do, Stab in the Dark, etc top out.

Rap down via slings at the corner at end of the traverse or top out and hike right along the trail that leads to the descent gully.

Protection

Standard Moore's stuff - small to mid-size for the face. For the traverse .75-2 sizes suffice but big gear may work too.

Photos

GWB
 
GWB  
 
Look here for a good route picture of Finger Love. It provides an excellent view of the route.

I would recommend leaving the helmet at the belay if you brought one up. The traverse is much simpler without the bulky plastic encompassing your head.

I just wish it went for a few more pitches! Jun 22, 2012
Sean M
  5.10a
Sean M  
  5.10a
If this route was longer, would be 4 stars! Makes a great second pitch of Breaking Rocks, much more interesting than Doans Pils.

Climbing beta: finger crack starts off with a nice comfortable angle, that gradually steepens towards the top, as the crack also gets thinner until it's just tips. Crux is the last 4-5 moves from the crack section up to the roof where it's pretty steep and feet aren't so good. Gear is good enough that falls from the crux should be really clean if you're placing well.

Gear beta: Small stuff for the bottom, big stuff for the traverse. I think I used 3 cams in the double 0 to 1 (mastercams) range, and another 3 in the 0.3 to 0.5 (BD C4) range for the first section. I was really sewing it up though, and you could probably use nuts or just less pro if it's a more comfortable grade for you. For the top section, a couple cams in the #2-3 range (BD C4) will protect the traverse just fine.

Belay/Descent beta: Most comfortable belay is about 10-15 feet climbers right of the rappel rings, using a crack system that eats up stuff from 0.5-1 BD C4. Rappel rings are in an awkward spot to belay from, but get you down easily to the top of Breaking Rocks. Rappel anchor is typical Moore's slightly sketch, a lot of old tat slings threading some rock, and an ancient ring that has been backed up with a slightly newer link. Sep 19, 2016

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