Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jeff Lauschey, Jon Reggelbrugge - 1985
Page Views: 1,811 total · 13/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

With its crux down low, Nuclear Crayon is a bit of a one-move wonder for the grade. Nice face climbing with adequate protection.

Below the face left of Almost Seven, climb up a left-facing flake, then through a thin sequency section (crux); a bolt should protect the moves. Continue up the face on solid holds with small pro, finishing at the Almost Seven belay.

Location

Starts about 20' left of Almost Seven; rap from fixed gear.

Protection

Small gear; one bolt.

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.10b/c R
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.10b/c R
Our guidebook showed two bolts, but there is only one. The protection is barely adequate. There is definitely potential for a big fall in several places on the climb. This is a good TR after climbing Golden Earing, but hard to recommend as a lead climb unless very comfortable at the grade. The rappel is 100 feet. Oct 9, 2007
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.10 PG13
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.10 PG13
I think it is a bit of a misnomer to call it a one move wonder for the grade. The crux section is short, but harder than 10b. RE: gear, there is small gear (micronuts) available immediately after the crux. This is taxing to place and somewhat difficult to find, but will hold at least a small fall... or so I've heard. Many choose to skip it as the stance above is quite good. Higher above the crux, the protection is quite adequate. Keep your eyes peeled and don't skip placements. The climbing above the crux is 5.8-ish. Feb 5, 2009
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10+ PG13
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10+ PG13
The crux section is harder than anything on Quaker State. May 28, 2014
Emil Briggs
  5.10c PG13
Emil Briggs  
  5.10c PG13
Have to agree with Neal. Quaker State is a lot more sustained but no really hard moves compared to the crux on Nuclear Crayon. Jun 2, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10+
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10+
Very fun, delicate moves through the crux section. Apr 4, 2016