GPS: 36.398, -80.292 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 47,490 total · 446/month
Shared By: Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

The Amphitheater is a large buttress near the north end of of Moore's Wall. The wall forms a sort of cirque, hence the name. Raise Hell to Step and Fetch get a lot of sun in cool months, while the routes to the right are cooler in summer.

The rock here has always seemed a bit different to me than other areas at Moore's. The holds are more friction dependent, and you will encounter more slopers (jugs and crimps) than at the North End or the Circus Wall. This intimidating buttress offers classics in every grade and should not be missed.

Getting There

Once you have taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right for the Sentinel Buttress. Continue PAST this sign on the powerline road for 5 more minutes until you get to another sign and a trail on your right. Take this right and walk up the winding trail for 10 minutes until you hit the Amphitheater. You'll hit the wall right around the start of Wailing Wall.

Descent Options

There are several different walls in The Amphitheater, all with different descent options. Many of the route descriptions mention descents, but some do not.

For Excellent Adventure and Wailing Wall, find a tree w/ fixed gear and do a double rope rappel.

For the routes on the main "sun wall" including Step and Fetch, scramble down to the fixed anchor directly above Quaker State. A 60m rope BARELY gets you down with stretch.

For all routes right of Step and Fetch, there are two rap stations near the top of the wall (webbing/tat). One (left one) is 100 feet above a bolted rap station that also serves as an anchor for Stab in the Dark. Farther right is a newer looking station (tree) that is directly above Shit Hook. If using the right most station, it would be difficult to get down with a single rope, since it is a ways right of the bolted station (Stab anchors).

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Amphitheater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 180
Wailing Wall
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 129
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring)
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
High Wire
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 63
Raise Hell
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Aloof Roof
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 40
Shit Hook
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Step
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
Do or Dive
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Finger Love
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Zombie Woof
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 25
Nuclear Crayon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 36
Stab in the Dark
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Quaker State
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Aid Raid
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wailing Wall
 180
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Almost Seven (aka Golden Ea…
 129
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
High Wire
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Raise Hell
 63
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Aloof Roof
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Shit Hook
 40
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Step
 56
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Do or Dive
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger Love
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Zombie Woof
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Nuclear Crayon
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Stab in the Dark
 36
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Quaker State
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Aid Raid
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Amphitheater »

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