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Elevation: 1,699 ft 518 m
GPS: 36.39961, -80.29081
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Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Feb 6, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

There are several different sectors at Moore's, all with a different feel and aspect. While most of the walls face north, there are a few areas that do get bathed in the beautiful North Carolina sun as it sets over Sauratown and Pilot Mountain in the distance. With the exception of the coldest winter months, you can find a comfortable place to climb year round.

Moore's Wall is the home of some of the earliest climbing in North Carolina; its first recorded ascent went up in 1959. Carolina pioneers like George DeWolfe put up numerous first ascents through the 1960s. The 70s saw development at a higher level as climbing gear improved; Bob Rotert and others established routes like Air Raid and Wild Kingdom, among the hardest routes in the state at the time. Tom Howard was another prolific FA artist, with routes like the classic Zoo View to his credit. And climbers owe a debt of gratitude to local legend Tim Fisher, not only for his numerous first ascents, but his efforts at maintaining climber access to the cliff.

Like most NC destinations, Moore's is primarily a trad area. One distinguishing feature of climbing here is the adventurous nature of the descents; don't look for convenient bolted rap stations at the topouts of most routes. A typical rap station consists of fixed pro, slung trees or chocks, or a combination of these. And just finding the rap stations can be a real easter egg hunt, involving scrambling and downclimbing. Be prepared!

Getting There Suggest change

From Winston-Salem, take US 52 north for about 13 miles to exit 122 (Moore-RJR Drive). Follow this road east for about four miles to NC 66 and turn left (north). Continue on 66 for almost seven miles to Moore's Spring Road (SR 1001). Turn right on Moore's Spring and continue a short distance to another right turn on Mickey Road. Follow this almost a mile to Charlie Young Road and turn right. After a short distance, you'll come to a parking lot and trailhead kiosk for the Tory's Den trail.

Continue up Charlie Young Road past the Tory's Den parking, then go right onto Hooker Farm Road for less than a half mile; turn right at the handy brown "Climbers Access" sign onto another dirt road and continue a short distance to a gravel parking lot on the left. In addition to a registration kiosk, this new climber's parking lot sports a unisex bathroom and a water pump for last-minute fills of the water bottle.

The approach from the climber parking lot is fairly aerobic, gaining about 500' of elevation in a 20-minute hike. Follow the trail past the kiosk for about 10 minutes until you reach a gravel power line road, and turn left. From here there are several trails that take you to the different sectors. See specific areas for detailed directions to each sector.

Access Issues

Suggest change

Sections of Moore's Wall are subject to closure for nesting peregrine falcons. This is set seasonally; for more details, check the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site and see the notices at the registration kiosk.

170 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moore's Wall (Routes)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 275
Wailing Wall
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 324
Zoo View
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 154
Air Show
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 75
Nutsweat
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Break On Through
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 60
Blue Chock
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 125
Quaker State
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Pooh Corner
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 53
Vascular Disaster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 51
Shadowdance
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 46
Mighty Mouse
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
Porter's Pooh
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 22
Wild Kingdom
Trad 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
Double Dare
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Season in Hell
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wailing Wall Amphitheater
 275
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Zoo View Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 324
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Air Show Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 154
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Nutsweat N End
 75
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Break On Through Sentinel Buttress > Circus Wall
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Blue Chock Central Wall
 60
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Quaker State Amphitheater
 125
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pooh Corner Hanging Garden
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Vascular Disaster N End
 53
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Shadowdance N End
 51
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 2 pitches
Mighty Mouse N End
 46
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Porter's Pooh Hanging Garden
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Wild Kingdom Fire Wall
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Double Dare Hanging Garden
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Season in Hell Hanging Garden
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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