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Quaker State

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 78 votes
FA: Rob Robinson, Tom McMillan 1978
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > Amphitheater

Description

This is the obvious crack feature in the center of the left Amphitheater wall. Great climbing with an exciting crux at the top. The centerpiece of the area and one of the best routes at Moores.

Location

Amphitheater, left wall.

Protection

Standard rack. This route can seem run out due to tricky placements. However, there is gear available for every section. Get a creative piece for the roof right off the ground. After the high crux, there is a good placement that is hard to see. Many just run it to the top. Fixed anchor with rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
[Hide Photo] Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of beautiful hemlocks that have since been lost to ice and pestilence. photo by PJ
[Hide Photo] John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of beautiful hemlocks that have since been lost to ice and pestilence. photo by PJ
Gear beta photo: Others have mentioned tricams at the upper crux but I've always thought this cam was much better. It's right before you step right on the normal finish -- not obvious at first but quite good.
[Hide Photo] Gear beta photo: Others have mentioned tricams at the upper crux but I've always thought this cam was much better. It's right before you step right on the normal finish -- not obvious at first but…
Stu at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Stu at the crux.
Scott cruises Quaker State.
[Hide Photo] Scott cruises Quaker State.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
[Hide Comment] It's safe, but really tough to protect well onsight. The possible big whip is safe, though (so i've heard). Awesome route! Aug 30, 2010
Carolina
Front Range NC
 
[Hide Comment] Steller Climb! Best Climb I have done in NC so far.... Jul 18, 2011
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive. Nov 8, 2011
Heath Alexander
Asheville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] One of the most beautiful lines at Moores. I worked on this off and on all season. Wish I could say I did it ground up, but I top-roped it before I started working on the lead. Be prepared for a moderate runout at the high crux; the gear is solid but well below your feet. I took the fall a few times and it is very safe. Also ended up with a groundfall length runout at the top, but the climbing is easy. I think there may be some gear after the crux, but I was too pumped to stop and place it. Nov 28, 2011
Robert Hutchins
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] If you are skilled, and maybe a little creative, with your gear you can do the entire climb without ever having to do a move harder than 5.7 with gear below your feet. You can actually get great overhead gear for the crux if you have some skills with tricams, and another more shallow piece ~3' lower than that. Classic Climb! Dec 21, 2011
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] The gear on this route is great and the upper, easier climbing can be protected as well. There are also a few rests to be found. Sep 9, 2015
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] The gear is indeed very tricky on this route. It's very safe through the bottom part, but I thought the upper section took serious effort to protect after the obvious .3 placement to start the crux.

Repeat ascents doubtless feel less strenuous to protect, but I got pretty damn pumped looking for placements on my first time yesterday. Oct 10, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
[Hide Comment] For the purists who lament the drop off in difficulty after the upper crux:

If you are
a) an onsight climbing beast
b) have the usual path mercilessly wired
c) a masochist

try continuing straight up the whole way, tackling the little arete above the top of the thinning crux crack. Most folks bail right at the end of the crack near the thank god jug but it's reasonable (if a little pumpy) to push on. This probably adds 15-20 feet more climbing in the 5.9 range but it will feel harder after what came before. Stay alert though as there are only a couple of pieces of gear at just the right distance for comfort.

Note that it's very easy to see the path+holds+gear for this option on rappel/lower.


Also, there are two distinctly different starts that I know of and probably are of similar difficulty about 20 feet apart that both end up placing you below the crack coming from the base of the big V. Both protect and are reasonable for leading. Nov 3, 2016