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Routes in Shortoff Mountain

Appalachain Chuffer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Appalachain Runt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between The Lines T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Big Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blade Runner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bonsai T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Built to Tilt T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Change Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Comfortably Numb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Construction Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desp-arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dopey Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Times T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Energizer T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Enterprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Paradise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finders Keepers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fly By T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Footloose T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
For The Birds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Tilt Boogie T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Golden Rule T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gully Rappel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Help Mr. Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Humdinger T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hurricane Escape Hatch T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Julia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Straw, The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning to fly T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lost and Found T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Made in the shade T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maginot Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
N.B.A. (Nothing But Air) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paradise Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paradise City T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickett's Charge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinball Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Raven 13 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reacharound T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ron Dawson Memorial Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Saddle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Serentripitous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shortoff Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleight of Hand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stopperhead Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Supercrack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tilted Arms T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trick Or Treat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Turn and Burn T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Twist of fate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
White Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tom Howard and Jim Okel
Page Views: 19,685 total, 154/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on May 29, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1-(100') Two options: (a) 5.8 : scramble to the top of the large detached block (roughly 20' off the ground) and climb the crack to a belay alcove about 10' above a dead stump in the crack (b) 5.9 : Take the first pitch of Toxic Shock, this is a highly recommended and more direct start that follows a right-leaning crack to the same belay as mentioned above. This "finger-crack" is deceptively steep and sustained for the 100' to the belay.

P2- (100') 5.9: From the belay, follow the crack up a short ways and cut left at the first opportunity to a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point the holds are jugs and the face is dead vertical, however, as one climbs higher the holds become smaller and the face gets steeper to just past vertical. The face begins to turn back down just below a small roof, pull the roof on monster jugs and head to a large ledge to belay. This pitch is definitely in my top 5 of the best 5.9s that I have done anywhere.

P3- (150') 5.6 Climb a short headwall and follow the least lichenous way to the top.

Location

From the bottom of the descent gully take a right and follow the trail to the base of the cliff at the first opportunity. The route begins either just left of or on top of a large detached block with some rhodo growing between it and the wall.

Protection

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot. Emphasis on finger-sized cams.
smurray47
  5.9+
smurray47  
  5.9+
One of the best 5.9s I've ever done!

Toxic Shock start pitch is the way to go, its not too bad at all and has solid gear with cool moves.

2nd pitch can seem hard to read because there's so many options! Jug haul and try not to get pumped out before it eases up! Good gear as well.

3rd pitch is a garbage scramble, but worth the price. Feb 13, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
We did it in two pitches with a 70M. Was able to reach a small tree near some good horizontals in one go from the regular belay. Nov 14, 2016
Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
  5.9
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
  5.9
A quick rappel to the top of pitch two you can set up a bomber anchor and top rope Toxic Shock straight in to pitch two of Dopey Duck from the ground up with a 70 meter rope. You know, if you're a weeny and the sustained climbing and exposure prevents you from leading Dopey Duck. Oct 4, 2016
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
 
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
 
P2 is one of the best 5.9 pitches anywhere. It is on par with the 9 on Walt Bailey (DT) and the 9 on the Center Route (S. Platte). Its exposure is excellent. Jul 18, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Looks like a sweet route!

vimeo.com/123870988 Apr 7, 2015
Thomas Skinner
Birmingham, AL
Thomas Skinner   Birmingham, AL
Left a #1 C4 and biner at the top of P2. If found and you feel like sending it back please email me @ tskinner@gru.edu . Best 5.9 pitch around get on it!!!!! Mar 26, 2015
Shadrock
Here and there.
 
Shadrock   Here and there.
 
I had the pleasure of climbing this behind a party that included first ascensionist Tom Howard, who's known for several other area classics as well. It was amazing to hear about the on-sight style this was established in: really humbling to consider the vision and commitment that took when you start up the crux. Unfortunately, even Tom can't remember what the name was referring to... Really cool to get some deep history and inspiration seeing some of Shortoff's original crew still getting out: thanks, Tom! Oct 27, 2014
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
 
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
 
I find myself daydreaming about this route all of the time. The second pitch is absolutely perfect rock climbing. May 28, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9
Do the more aesthetic first pitch of Toxic Shock to the ultra classic 2nd pitch of Dopey. Apr 22, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Fun route. No hard moves, but for a while, those horizontals aren't quite as juggy as they look! Definitely packs a pump. Also recommend the Toxic Shock start. I do disagree that this is "the" 5.9 at Shortoff... I thought Construction Job was better. Nov 5, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Phenomenal Route! If you have a chance, get on it! This route has got it all, super fun from beginning to start. The second pitch is fantastic, no shortage of great holds and excellent placements, though making placements will surely pump you out so plug and go! Great exposure, great pro, great moves, Great Route!!

Make sure to bring a handful of c3's for the second pitch!!

  • *Must DO**
Sep 16, 2012
Dustin Stephens  
  5.9
Spectacular! Jul 27, 2012
DrewF  
I agree with Ryan's last post. I was sort of nervous about climbing it because of all the talk about the rating being possibly sandbagged. I would call it 5.9 for the pump. Toxic shock was an awesome suggestion for the start, great crack to climb up. Entire route takes good gear and was the best climb I did at the gorge. Nov 16, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.8+
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.8+
Can't believe it took me so long to do this thing. Excellent!

We did it in two pitches to the big ledge and then soloed the last "5.6" pitch. No real 5.9 moves on this climb, but it sure packs a pump. We did the Toxic Shock start which also felt more like stiff 5.8 to me... either way, a 5.8 climber would probably not do well on the second pitch, hence the 5.9 grade. Oct 21, 2011
cshuey77 shuey
Asheviile,nc
  5.9
cshuey77 shuey   Asheviile,nc
  5.9
N.C must do!! May 27, 2010
thanks for the toxic shock suggestion for the first pitch. it was really nice. the whole route was amazing. Nov 3, 2008
Mike Flanagan
Redlands, CA
  5.9
Mike Flanagan   Redlands, CA
  5.9
Amazing route. It's a shame I didn't get out to do it sooner. Mar 26, 2008
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9+
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.9+
Luke, I have more pictures from that weekend...I will get a disk to y'all. Nov 19, 2007
Luke Alford
Atlanta, GA
Luke Alford   Atlanta, GA
That was absolutely an awesome route, definitely a must do for Shortoff. I also liked toxic shock as an aesthetic first pitch, though many folks seem to disagree. Jeff, thanks for catching that shot of me taking the ride. That's the best looking picture I've ever seen of me climbing, err... falling. Nov 19, 2007
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9+
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.9+
I saw a quote online supposedly from Doc Bayne...something to the effect of "if that thing was anymore 5.9, it would be 5.11..." Oct 10, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I've never placed a piece in the "finger crack". Great horizontals every few feet! Jun 5, 2007
Rob Dillon  
 
The Duck rules!

Toxic Shock is a pretty good way to start, if you're both leading 5.9.

A 60m got me to the top on p2 last time, but I could feel it. May 30, 2007