Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz
Page Views: 3,129 total · 17/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

13 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This overlooked route is worth the effort for the NC climber, though it can be exciting without some specific gear beta. Best to use double ropes at the start and then release one when the 1st bolt is reached.

Climb up the chimney placing the #3 camalot. Move up to a stance and locate a great medium stopper. Step back down and move across the chimney onto the face. Dance over to the 1st bolt. Clip 2nd rope and release 1st rope. Move straight up to the 2nd bolt. Climb up (blue tcu here) and then around left onto the delicate face and stance. Get Ready.

Fire in the key sideways #5 WC rock. Make sure it's good! Move up on delicate crimps and layaways to a right foot stance. Look up and fire in that pink tricam (tape the sling for stiffness, its a high placement). Climb up and right (crux) to easier ground and a stance. Medium BD cams here. Climb up and left to the fixed stainless anchor courtesy of Tim Fisher. Inner Peace is now yours!

For extra credit you can give the direct start a go!
FA- Bruce Burgess, Thomas Kelly, Ralph Fickle

Start up the hill from the regular start beneath a left rising ramp/flake. Climb up and left to a bolt with a new modern SS painted hanger. Bust up and left to a crucial small tcu, c3 or hybrid placement. Step slightly left and then bust the move up the ledge. 5.11c

Location Suggest change

As you turn the corner past the cereal buttress, on the way to the cereal wall, look up and left. You will see a chimney and a clean looking face. Start in the chimney.

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts, pink tricam, #5 wild country rock, medium BD stoppers, #3 camalot, blue tcu, medium cams for the top. Fixed stainless anchor at the top.

Extra Credit: The new "Evo tricam" works wonderfully for the upper crux, so well in fact it could be considered cheating!


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