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Good Samaritans

5.9+, Trad, 175 ft (53 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 19 votes
FA: Sean Cobourn, Doug Swords, Allen Irwin- Feb 8, 2009
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress

Description

P1- Finess your way up the wide crack. Where you want a #5 Camalot you can clip the third bolt on Frankenberry to your right instead. Where obvious, step left onto the fun face passing a bolt and avoiding some nastiness. Face climb up to the halfway ledge and belay in the obvious arching crack. 5.9+?
P2- Climb the big hand crack up to and through the overlap and then cut right to the Frankenberry belay bolts. 5.8+? Rappell the route with two ropes.

Location

The formerly vegetated wide crack between Breakfast of Champions and Frankenberry.

Protection

Up to # 5 Camalot is nice, if you have one (we did not). Up to #4 will do. 2 bolts (one is third bolt on Frankenberry).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First pitch just after placing the #5
[Hide Photo] First pitch just after placing the #5
Moving right to clip the Frankenberry bolt. From here head up left and stay out of the bushy stuff to the next high bolt and a spicy runout.
[Hide Photo] Moving right to clip the Frankenberry bolt. From here head up left and stay out of the bushy stuff to the next high bolt and a spicy runout.
a little higher on P1
[Hide Photo] a little higher on P1
first crux (hint- look up and right)
[Hide Photo] first crux (hint- look up and right)
FA pitch 1
[Hide Photo] FA pitch 1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is the last of the routes to ascend the formerly poison ivy choked wall right of Frosted Flake. A handful of us spent several days over the last few years excavating 5 decent routes and suffered the itchy consequences.
This one will clean up nicely after a couple ascents and a couple rain storms. Look out for some stray loose stones on P2, it is still a tad crispy up there. Feb 7, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this last weekend...good route that doesn't require the wide crack technique it may look like it needs. I used a 4 and a 5. Also, after clipping the bolt, I headed left to the bolts on Breakfast of Champions to lower off of. Sean and all, thanks for cleaning it up. Mar 14, 2009
nbrown
 
[Hide Comment] Jeff, I think that you missed the best part... the upper hand crack. Fun route, hopefully the PI won't overtake it again. I used a new #4 camelot deep in the wide section, but a #5 would have been much better if I'd had it with me. The last overlap in the crack was a bit tricky, especially since it was damp at the time. Nov 13, 2009
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] The 2nd pitch is excellent. Excellent protection all the way through. Should become a popular route now that it's clean Nov 15, 2009
Jeff Jenkins
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] This route is a lot better than it looks from the ground. The offwigth is not technical then you access the face to your left to a ledge then back to the right to a killer left facing dihedrial. We linked both pitchs and then rapped to B. of Champians anchor to finish the rap. Great climb , seams to have a crux in the face then one in the corner above. A little run out on the face but not too bad. Nov 28, 2009
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] better and more fun to do it as one long pitch. Dec 28, 2009
Noah J
Desert, NM
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is money, but the first pitch could use some gardening (bring your gloves, the ivy is still there). If you have a #6 consider bringing it for the P1 wideness. Nov 12, 2013
Emil Briggs
[Hide Comment] Noah was it possible to climb around the ivy? Nov 18, 2013
Noah J
Desert, NM
[Hide Comment] I tried, but we all ended with the itchiness. Nov 21, 2013
Adam Gallimore
Greensboro
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Did this route on thanksgiving and it was extremely overgrown. I had to clear maybe 50 limbs and branches to even reach some of the crack. The face around the bolt was covered in branches and it was near impossible to see any of the feet. Was able to clear just enough dirt away to finish the sketchy runout. Since I did it in 1 pitch, the rope drag was so insane I decided to finish at the 2nd pitch fruit loops anchor. From there it seems you can rap with one 70m to the top of the granola block with rope stretch.

Make sure to take some pruners up with you if you climb this, and maybe wear pants and a long sleeve shirt. I'm still recovering from the poison oak rash despite everything being dead.

Overall, it was an awesome route that was spicy in sections and just needs a good cleaning. I felt having a #4 & 5 was pretty necessary for the wide start. I might rap and clean this before I try and lead it again. Dec 2, 2020