Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeep Gaskin and Brad Shaver, 1976
Page Views: 6,391 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Capt Crunch starts on the right edge of the backside of the cereal buttress. Look for the obvious wide crack start. You will be salivating when you look up at the upper jams!

Location

Located on the back right side of the Cereal Buttress. Look for the wide crack start, that goes through some blocks and finishes on bomber jams.

Protection

Bring extra 3-4 inch gear for the wide section. No anchors at the top. Rap off trees.

Photos

nbrown
WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
Mellow climbing for the grade. Watch out for the somewhat dirty top out. Jan 4, 2008
The first tree at the top of the route fell over in a storm. Belay way back from the edge on the next best tree. Nov 23, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.10d
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.10d
With the other tree falling down, this route is a pretty strong candidate for a bolted anchor. The next best tree is pretty far back and not at all confidence inspiring. Oct 31, 2011
Robert Hutchins
  5.10c
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10c
Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge. Dec 21, 2011
nbrown
WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
Regarding the need for an anchor: I completely agree with Robert's comment. Jun 29, 2012
Kevin DB
  5.10c/d
Kevin DB  
  5.10c/d
Wouldn't complain if someone put in an anchor. It's pretty good climbing, pulling through the surprisingly solid death block roof is somewhat unnerving. Jan 21, 2013
Put in a bolt anchor up top. Has anyone thought about the reason the trees are falling out. Because people are belaying off them. D'uh! Feb 23, 2014
chummer  
Agreed, no reason not to put in a two bolt belay at the top. It will keep people from trampling the moss up on the ledge and maybe keep the tree alive too.

The route is plenty trad as it is. Oct 20, 2014
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
 
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
 
fyi, we climbed on 4/11/16 and there are two trees with rap slings -- one on the far L side of the ledge, and one on the far R side. we rapped off the R one which seemed easier to get to. really fun route but i also agree a little soft for the grade. reminded me of Agony at seneca rocks. Apr 12, 2016
Ben Wu
North Carolina
 
Ben Wu   North Carolina
 
@gneiss pirate Might I ask why? I'm new to these discussions, so I'd appreciate some edification. Nov 2, 2016
What are the thoughts now on adding a bolted anchor due to fire? Curious to hear if there was damage to the trees/soil. Could be a great chance to help preserve what is [left?] at the top of the cliff. Seems more LNT to me... Dec 8, 2016
Gneiss Pirate, since you are so adamant against a bolted anchor here, could you explain to me the thought process of why? I truly don't understand the "NC ethic". It seems like a great way to get folks hurt.

Back in the day when there was less traffic I would agree with the use of trees/natural features. Times have changed though. Climbing is more popular now than ever, and as a result there has been a greater environmental impact in the areas we love.

Does a bolt anchor take away from the quality of the route? Is it a LNT issue? Is it a pride thing? What would have a greater impact...putting two bolts at the top of a route, or trampling a fragile cliff top ecosystem. Besides, tat is typically sketchy, and ugly. Especially when you get a whole web of crap because no one trusts it. I'd like to see the rodents try chewing through some bolts... Dec 11, 2016
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Christian...the NC tradition gives the utmost respect to the FAer of the route and dictates that changes to routes generally involve getting in contact with the FAer and asking permission for that change. This is a great way to preserve the purity of a route and make sure nobody changes what makes each climb great/difficult/different/unique. Instead of becoming inflammatory over this, maybe you should follow accepted protocol and get in touch with Jeep about his feelings on adding a bolted anchor. Dec 12, 2016
As of 1/29/17 tree is in good shape and it appears that webbing/cord combo has been replaced post-fire. No issues belaying or rapping. Jan 29, 2017
I understand the whole "NC ethics" thing, and I think the traditions (tribute to FA'ers, etc) are really cool and valuable as a younger climber. But at what cost do the "NC ethics" rule above all else? As previously mentioned, climbing is more popular than ever. As users/lovers of the natural world, it is our duty to make sure we use LNT ethics to preserve our climbing areas for future generations. Bolted anchors are not the same as retrobolting a route that was originally done on trad, or rap bolting vs ground up. Its a safety and conservation approach, and using an old tree for decades to belay/rap on just because that's how the FAers did it is a mindset that has to change. Oct 31, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
"Does a bolt anchor take away from the quality of the route?"
I think it might, in this case Topping out is a key sequence to the climb; the 2 bolts would stop the climb too soon. We had no problems doing this route traditionally with both climbers topping out. What a fantastic experience! Nov 27, 2018