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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sean Cobourn, Allen Irwin, Eddie Medina and Tim Snyder (Jan. '09)
Page Views: 3,602 total, 34/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Jan 26, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Climb the obvious, newly excavated dihedral to a roof. Follow the crack around the right side of roof and then up to a tree. Rap from tree OR,
climb up and slightly left to the Frankenberry anchors, OR,
climb up to the right until under the large roof above. Climb up a short but fun crack then traverse left under the roof. This variation, "Obamanation Continuation" was put up by Shannon Millsaps and Sean Cobourn on December 6, 2009. Lots of trundling of loose blocks involved. Downclimb to Frankenberry anchors which are at the pine below you.

Location

At right side of Cereal Buttress, 30 right and uphill of Frankenberry. Until recent excavations, this wall was ensnarled with copious amounts of ancient poison ivy vines, dirt and loose boulders. A couple more ascents and rain storms and it should be pretty clean.

Protection

all trad to a 4 Camalot plus trees below and above the roof.

Photos

Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
by all means feel free to reclaim this fun route from the vegetation. Aug 18, 2017
As of October 2016, this route is totally overgrown. Looks like it's been a couple of years since anyone has climbed it. Too bad. It looks pretty fun, and it's always nice to have some non-face climbing 5.8's to try.

Any ideas on how to re-claim this climb? (I guess you just start leading, and pull out weeds as you go? Or somehow get to the anchor and set up a toprope?) Oct 31, 2016
zFoy Foy
Asheville, NC
 
zFoy Foy   Asheville, NC
 
Worth doing essentially for the couple moves out of the roof. The jams here feel solid and fun. Feet quite slick. Feb 17, 2012
John Saunders
Cornelius, NC
  5.9
John Saunders   Cornelius, NC
  5.9
Agree that roof moves felt more 5.9 Nov 12, 2011
Sam Stephens
  5.9
Sam Stephens  
  5.9
Did the first pitch of this today. A bat flew out of the crack below the tree and almost hit my girlfriend in the face. Fun moves out the roof for sure.

Thought the roof moves felt like 5.9, only because there were no discernible feet when I came out the roof except for one dime edge. Mar 2, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.8
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.8
Cool move out of the roof, bomber hands. Still a few plants growing in the easy corner down low. Dec 12, 2010
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
  5.9
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
  5.9
First pitch is a one move wonder. I really liked the second pitch. Feb 17, 2010