Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Chris Cantwell & Bruce Morris, September 1979
Page Views: 29,012 total · 140/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 30, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

One of THE all-time 5.10 finger cracks. This single, (ed.) ~160-foot section of fractured granite offers more perfect fingerlocks - on clean stone and in a breathtaking setting - is one of Yosemite's best.

Start the climb by traversing from the sometimes ant-infested tree, first up, then across climber's right, and finally down and right again (5.6 on obvious features, sparse pro) to the bottom of the business. From a stance, move up and slot the first of +/- three dozen flawless fingerlocks that await you on your bid for the anchors and you're off. The occasional hand jam will provide decent rests, and let you conserve your finger-sized cams. The wall gradually steepens and the crack gradually thins as you near the chains.

Clip anchors, dumbfounded and euphoric, and reconfirm to yourself that it is in fact worth it to pay such high rent to be able to live near stuff like this. (Or plane tickets to get here).

Location Suggest change

Approach from the parking lot as for other climbs on the Apron. Continue up and right (West) along the base, keeping an eye out for a finger crack with a sculpted-by-the-hand-of-god look to it which begins about 120 up the wall in a section of clean, grey rock. To reach the tree belay at the start of the climb, which sits on a ledge 110 feet above the talus, either climb Apron Jam (5.9 layback), or scramble up the 4th class ramp that angles up and left from directly beneath Mr. Natural. Two 2-rope raps get you to the ground from the anchors.

Warning: there has been serious rockfall in the GPA vicinity, and fatal rockfall in the area of this climb, in recent history. GPA is a rockfall zone. The same could be said for virtually all of Yosemite Valley, but perhaps more so here than other areas. See below for more.

Protection Suggest change

Finger-sized cams and nuts, from very small to wide fingers, plus a few hand-sized pieces (up to 1.5-2") for the occasional pod. Bring runners for the first few pieces (traverse and lower crack).