Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rubicon Formation

Amphetamine Reptile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jump Start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Java at Josh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psychedelic Elvis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seizure T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Bald & Hank Levine, 1976 FFA: (TR) John Long and others FL: Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, Rich Smith & Eve Uiga, December 1978
Page Views: 21,028 total, 109/month
Shared By: Steve Juhasz on Dec 27, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


219 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is my personal favorite 5.10 route in Josh. You can rappel with one 60 meter rope, but the route has at least 40 meters of climbing to it. The upper half of the climb is a sustained and exciting finger crack with excellent nut placements and lots of amazing edges for the feet. Think carefully about how you want to protect this route since placing gear along it's entire length would result in totally unbearable rope drag by the time the crux is reached. Long runners or double ropes still do not take the bite out of the zig-zag line; luckily the start and traverse are easy and don't require too much gear (back-cleaning works well too).

Protection

Take a standard rack, with emphasis on finger-sized nuts, since the upper section of the route takes nuts very well. Bolted anchor/rap at the top of the route.
Gabriella Venus 1
5.10b PG13
Gabriella Venus 1  
5.10b PG13
One of my fave routes in j-tree. Did both starts, the indirect was more fun. Running it out to the finger crack felt natural as the climbing gets easier and easier the further you traverse. Did not notice a tree on the direct start but felt solid at 11b. Jan 14, 2017
Adam Freund
  5.10c
Adam Freund  
  5.10c
One of my all-time favorite routes. The individual moves aren't hard, it's just the pump factor. I've done the traverse start with two ropes as well as with one. I think just using a single 60m rope, being conscious of rope drag when placing gear, and using long slings where appropriate in the traverse section is the best method. It also makes it easier to belay the second. If top roping, try the harder direct starts to the left. Mar 13, 2015
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c
Excellent. The finger crack is amazing. Flows really well, protects well (gear is a bit fiddly - imagine placing cams or nuts in super grainy granite with large crystals, because this is what you will be doing!). I placed a number 2 about 10 feet off the deck, then placed a number 1 above it and removed the number two. Then worked up to the rest where the traverse starts, placed the number 2 again to the left, and took out the number one. Backed up the number 2 with a number 3 about 5 feet to the left, and then ran the traverse for about 15 feet and placed a red alien. Extended 24" runners on all the traverse pieces. Just keep your weight on your feed through the traverse. It isn't bad. The feet get much easier about halfway through the traverse. You will be able to stand up on good feet and rest at the base of the crack. Climb up a bit, get a first high piece, then down climb and rest up for the rest of the crack. There are some decent rests on the crack, you just have to find them! Lots of nuts higher, and finger sized aliens. Jan 27, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10c
Tradiban  
  5.10c
I shuffled an anchor through the traverse. A MUST do for JT. Apr 23, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
Devours medium stoppers. Good foot placements. A great 10c imho. Apr 26, 2012
The history on this is a little screwy. Before Herb and com. ever did this route, Bachar and I top roped the thing via the direct start. It was grainy and quite hard for the mid-70s. We most certainly would have led it but there was not way to protect the bottom part so we just strung a TR and had at it - as so often happened BITD.

I did the route various times after that first effort and was amazed how well it cleaned up. There were also a few little flakes that got wrenched out of the crack that made it much more doable.

UPDATE: Came across some old pics and notes on this one after a friend of mine from the local climbing gym went out today and did this crack.

To the best of my knowledge, Bachar and I did the FA on top rope and it was a grain fest and we had to crank out a bunch of loose shite from the crack. The direct start was also grainy and hard for the time - like 11d. Herb, Lonnie and others led the route by way of a huge traverse in from the right along that horizontal crack, but we always thought this was a cheat. So around 1975, Richard Harrison and I did it from the bottom, straight up. We probably should have put a bolt in so the original, direct start would become the way to do this classic, but back then the idea was to run the cord on everything.

JL Jul 14, 2011
gregory huey
Irvine, CA
5.10d
gregory huey   Irvine, CA
5.10d
Bagged the redpoint on this excellent 10d (one of the best at JT?) Oct 24 2009. I used minimal pro with long slings over the easy hand-crack (approach) section and had no problem with rope drag (of course _had_ I fallen there it might have not been so great... - but the hand-crack is super-easy). This was my third ascent and the second on lead - benefited greatly from previous experience protecting the 10d finger-crack section - it eats up finger-sized stoppers great. This time I racked all my finger-sized stoppers each on their own draw, which made placing protection quick & easy. I actually used stoppers exclusively over the 10d finger-crack section. I'm posting a picture that shows my protection scheme. Nov 17, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c
Best crack I have done in Josh to date, very high quality! Not one of those pebbly on the inside ones. Nov 27, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
A great route- got the onsight last season. It's best to just solo to the base of the main crack- its cruiser the whole way and provides a nice .11a option for your second. I'd also call this .10c at most- I felt comfortable on it the whole way, which is rarely the case for me on a .10d. Oct 18, 2007
Ben Craft
  5.11a
Ben Craft  
  5.11a
It appears there are two directs starts to this climb. Start in the left leaning seam and stem off the tree is about 5.11a. It is a nice alternative for the second if no gear is placed on the traverse. Oct 11, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
In my day, this coveted climb was a bit feared. But it is evident the secret is out. As for my opinion, the bottom, crappy crack before the traverse part bothers me the most. After that, this climb stands as a testimate to pure crack climbing. With stances galore, I kept asking where's the crux? A number 3 cam at the opening 3/4 up and a small cam at the crux is the key. Before that this crack sux up cams and nuts like no tomorrow. The direct start is grainy and hard. Too bad. Jun 11, 2004
Mike Hack  
 
I finally understand some of the "10b" comments in this thread. The first time I led it, I sewed it up near the bulge below the big hold, pumped out and fell off. Felt much pumpier than C&J. The second time I just put a #2 TCU below the bulge, #3 BD at the big hold, #1 TCU a stance above, and then it was done. Less of a brawl than C&J; more delicate and sustained. But I don't know if any single move was harder than 10b . . . Apr 11, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10c
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10c
Finally did it!!! Awesome - one of the best for the grade! Oct 23, 2003
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
I've 'dogged this route twice now, but I know I can do it! :-). This means it's not 10d. I vote 10c. Jun 6, 2003
I vote "Rubicon" is 5.10c. Apr 11, 2003
I finally did this route yesterday. I would say that it was more challenging for me than most .10c's I've been on, but I have a tendancy to sew stuff up and I definitely am better at hard moves than I am at sustained climbing, so I got a pretty decent pump. I agree though that .10c sounds good. For me it was harder than Clean and Jerk or Martin Quits (which might be soft by the way), but still easier than Crescent Wrench or Robert's Crack or O'Kelley's Crack. Mar 26, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
5.10c sounds about right to me. Mar 19, 2003
Randy
5.10c
Randy  
5.10c
I've been accused of sandbagging, but 5.10b would definitely be a sandbag. On the other hand, it is very soft for a Josh 5.10d. I am planning on re-rating the route as 5.10c in vol. 3.

As an alternative to pulling rope through, don't protect the vertical crack, put one piece in for the traverse (as far left as possible) with a runner, and climb up the upper crack a ways before placing the next piece. Viola! No rope drag. But, probably not an advisable method for the budding 5.10b leader... Mar 18, 2003
Rubicon is an excellent route on superb rock. To avoid rope drag it is possible to pull the rope once the vertical crack is reached and have your belayer move over. The gear is easily cleaned on rappel. Alternatively, the 5.11d s direct start is an option.

I thought the 5.10d rating was soft for J-Tree standards.... Mar 18, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Cool route but it seems more like 5.10b. Four stars out of five.

The route was originally called Artificial Insemination and diagonaled up to the start of the crack via aid (including a shoulder stand). This (in)direct start has been free-climbed on toprope at solid 5.12. To the right is another (more) direct start that begins from a small tree (5.11a) which leads directly to the base of the upper crack; starting without the tree makes this even harder (5.11+). Mar 18, 2003