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5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.006, -116.0572 |
| FA: | John Bald & Hank Levine, 1976 FFA: (TR) John Long and others FL: Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, Rich Smith & Eve Uiga, December 1978 |
| Page Views: | 34,800 total · 117/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Juhasz on Dec 27, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is my personal favorite 5.10 route in Josh. You can rappel with one 60 meter rope, but the route has at least 40 meters of climbing to it. The upper half of the climb is a sustained and exciting finger crack with excellent nut placements and lots of amazing edges for the feet. Think carefully about how you want to protect this route since placing gear along it's entire length would result in totally unbearable rope drag by the time the crux is reached. Long runners or double ropes still do not take the bite out of the zig-zag line; luckily the start and traverse are easy and don't require too much gear (back-cleaning works well too).



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