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Routes in Rubicon Formation

Amphetamine Reptile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jump Start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Java at Josh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psychedelic Elvis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seizure T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Kris Solem and Charles Crist, October 1988
Page Views: 1,167 total, 6/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the initial crack on Rubicon, but continue up it past the horizontal about 10 feet or so. Head out left and up to a bolt, then head up and a bit left past 4 more bolts finishing at the rap anchor on top.

Steep, technical, well protected face with a real crux move between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Note, the route line and bolts shown in the 1992 guide (and the crag photo on this site) are incorrect. The actual line lies further left and angles left more. 1st bolt is about 15+ feet above the horizontal.

Protection

5 bolts and maybe a 2 to 3 inch piece to protect getting to 1st bolt (you can then clean it).

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
Super sharp holds. Painful on TR. Don't slip or you will lose skin... Mar 11, 2015
RTM
RTM  
Cool line! I found one section to be too reachy for me though. Mar 27, 2009
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I used to think this one was impossible until I successfully thrutched my way up it on toprope. I would say the crux is certainly a touch harder than Games Without Frontiers; I was able to redpoint that one but the lead on Seizure remains elusive. Both routes require a peculiar combination of finesse and brute force. Great route! Dec 20, 2008
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
" ATS wrote...John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure... "

Yes. And after he did it he told me that he had done a number of easier 13's...

Erik Erikson did the third - I belayed him on it. He said he thought it was harder than Games Without Frontiers. I tend to agree, although height is a factor on both of these routes.

hmm.

edit: As I recall, Erik did not suggest upgrading Seizure, but rather downgrading Games... Dec 1, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
"Shortly after the FA the route was chopped" local urban legend is that was the least of the problem. Kris runs a nice story along with putting up that route and what occurred thereafter.

Nice line, wish I could climb harder! Nov 29, 2007
John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure Nov 29, 2007
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
Mike, it's nice to see someone climbing on that route. A few notes about the FA:

We worked the line on TR, not wanting to bolt until we knew we could do it cleanly. The first 4 bolts went in ground up from hooks, and from the 4th I led to the top (big runout,) being unable to stop and drill along the way. I got some pro in the top of Rubicon and climbed back down and placed the 5th bolt right then at the insitance of my partner, Charlie Crist. A close look will reveal an empty hole somewhere right of the 3rd bolt. this was the original location but after getting the rope behind my feet for a couple falls I moved it. Shortly after the FA the route was chopped by someone who was extremely upset with me in a personal matter, and after things cooled off I placed the bolts which are there now. Jan 4, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Super technical face climbing. Easily TR'ed from the Rubicon anchors. I'll post an updated picture with the correct line and bolts drawn in. Oct 23, 2003