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Routes in Rubicon Formation

Amphetamine Reptile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jump Start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jumpin' Jimmy Jones Jams Java at Josh T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pit Viper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psychedelic Elvis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seizure T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: (TR) Roger Whitehead & Chris French 1986, FL: Lavon Weighall & Chuck Davis, October 1988
Page Views: 663 total, 4/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This steep face climb requires body tension and momentum to make it past the first three bolts to the horizontal crack which spans the Rubicon formation. Fortunately, the small protruding crystals and features used for smearing and hand / foot holds are firmly embedded in the matrix. Above the horizontal crack the difficulty eases and three more bolts protect moves to a rounded arete before a small slanting ledge is reached below the summit. A fist sized crack at the bottom of the ledge can be used to make an anchor with cams. Easy climbing to the top of the formation is necessary to access the chain anchor used to rappel off.

Protection

Quickdraws for six bolts. Fist sized cams are necessary for an anchor in a crack at the bottom of a small slanting ledge about 10' below the summit of the Rubicon formation.

Photos

The bolts are 3/8" but the homemade hangers are rusty. While replacing the bolts may be desirable, I don't think it's crucial to make the route "safe." Mar 26, 2003
The bolts on this route looked older. Didn't climb the route but went and gave it a decent looking over, probably candidates for replacement. Mar 26, 2003