Sinners On Sunday
Avg: 3.4 from 18 votes
Routes in The Black Wall
|Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Cannonball Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Achievers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Harry Cary T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|High Variance T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R|
|Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Sinners On Sunday T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0|
|Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4- R|
|Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1-|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Scott Sinor, Dan Godshall, Greg German, Jackie Kuusinen|
|Page Views:||7,589 total, 189/month|
|Shared By:||303scott on Aug 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route takes a line between Rainbow Highway and High Variance. It is on excellent rock and generally protects quite well. It shares the 3rd pitch of Rainbow Highway and the last 15 meters of High Variance.
Pitch 1. (5.9 PG-13, 55m) You are aiming for a wide-looking crack to the right of the start of Coffee Achievers and High Variance. At nearly the lowest point of the Black Wall, find a cairn and climb easy but interesting slab past a small flake with pro on its right side, up to a small roof that takes pro. Continue straight up and then angle left on the path of least resistance to the base of a large flake. This is somewhat runout slab and should probably be avoided if wet. If wet, take the obvious 5.easy ramp/crack starting 20 meters left of the actual start up to the corner. Climb the flake up and right into an overhanging corner and pull through on a thin hand crack. Climb up and right to the anchors on pitch 2 of Rainbow Highway.
Pitch 2. (5.10 C0, 35m) Climb pitch 3 of Rainbow Highway as follows: from the belay head up and right on grassy/slabby terrain to the corner. You are aiming for a handcrack and left-facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, leave Rainbow Highway and traverse straight left on three bolts (C0) to a bolted anchor. Unfortunately, the holds that previously enabled this traverse broke off. It goes at C0. Fortunately, the clean aid is only about 15 feet and is all on bolts.
Pitch 3. (5.12- or 5.11 C1, 35m) Climb the splitter finger crack for 35 meters. Dont take anything larger than a 0.75 on this pitch. The difficulties start directly off the belay, with some tricky 5.11 finger crack. After 5 meters, clip a bolt where the crack pinches to a seam and fire the crux (5.12-). Alternatively, clip the bolt, place a piece or two, and aid the crux, which is relatively short (about 2-3 meters). Then hold on for 25 meters of fantastic 5.11 fingers. Belay at bolted anchors.
Pitch 4. (5.11+ or 5.10+, 35m) Look directly up from the anchors and identify the large, left-facing weakness that goes through a wide-hands roof 25 meters up and to the left. Climb off the belay up left on unprotected 5.8 slab to gain a grassy ledge, or go around the corner farther left and climb a crack that will accept gear. Placing gear in the corner will significantly increase drag. Traverse back right and test the first, left-trending flake you come to, and decide if you trust it for gear (note that the flake flexes but has not come off on multiple ascents - including some fairly intense prying to try and get it to come off). Good gear can be had after the first 2 meters with supplemental gear available earlier in the Rainbow Highway corner to the right. Continue climbing the corner up to the final, horizontal roof and make a choice. Heading up and left through the roof is burly and incredibly exposed 5.11+ climbing with good protection. The route originally went through the roof, but the hand-traverse right around to the face is also fantastic and goes at 5.10 (keeping the pitch at 5.10+). In either case, belay at bolted anchors on the left side of the arête (hidden if you take the 5.10 exit).
Pitch 5. (5.11-, 35m) Take the obvious bolt line up 7 meters of slab, place pro, and pull through the roof. After the roof, traverse left towards the arête and then continue up to a bolt. Clip the bolt and pull up to an undercling (crux?), clip a bolt and pull through the second roof. Rejoin the last 5 meters of Rainbow Highway and belay at that routes bolted anchors.
Pitch 6. (5.11-, 25m) From the Rainbow Highway anchors traverse 6-7 meters straight left on a grassy ledge. Climb 3 meters up the face to gain a smaller ledge and continue left to the arête. Climb the arête past a bolt, up to the roof, and bypass the roof on the left. Climb the right side of a flake, clip a bolt, and climb the arête to the anchors of High Variance. This pitch shares about 15 meters of the last pitch of High Variance. A special thanks to Matt Wilder for allowing us to add the upper bolt to his route.
Pitch 7. (5.10, 10m) Climb straight up through the roof if dry or climb out right through the easier weakness to the final anchors on Rainbow Highway. This pitch is very short.