Rasta Root

Another classic on Trapezoid. This route has one of the steepest hard pitches in the High Sierra, as well as a smattering of other classic clean pitches. All belays are bolted. The route can be rappelled with a 70 meter rope, however pitch 2 will not reach and it is necessary to use another bolted anchor half way down on climber’s right which was left by another ascent party.

Start below the obvious longest splitter visible in the smack dab middle of Trapezoid’s face.

Pitch 1: 5.11a, 20m. Climb on thin green rock past 3 bolts right off the ground (crux) to reach a discontinuous but easy crack which protects with medium and small cams. After reaching 1 more bolt where the crack peters out, cut left to the big flat belay ledge. 4 bolts, medium and small cams.

Pitch 2: 5.12a. 45m. The Root Crack. Gain the splitter past 2 bolts, continue up the splitter for 40 meters (crux is in the first 20 meters) to the belay ledge out right. 2 bolts, lots of small to medium cams and small-medium stoppers.

Pitch 3: 5.12b. 35m. The Rasta Roof-an incredible pitch! From the belay, continue up the same splitter as pitch 2 to the roof, clip a couple of bolts to cut right, and enter the beautiful white finger crack corner. Up this to the next roof, exiting left and finishing up the overhanging face with great holds past 2 final bolts. 4 bolts, double cams from #00 to green Camelot with triples on blue, yellow, and orange Metolius finger size, and 1 gold Camelot, shoulder length slings and draws.

Pitch 4: 5.7. 15m. A short pitch. Climb the hand crack directly above the belay for 30 feet, then up the loose blocky ledges for another 30 feet to the belay. Medium cams

Pitch 5: 5.9. 25m. Climb the nice pink face heading straight up towards the rightward slanting roof. Over the roof on it’s right and up left to the belay ledge. 5 bolts.

Descent: The route can be rappelled with a single 70 meter rope. The rappel down the long pitch 2 crack will not reach the top of pitch 1 belay, but will reach another 2 bolt anchor off to climber’s right 25 feet right of the pitch 2 crack. This anchor will then reach to the ground. Tie knots in the ends of your ropes, especially on the roof rappel. 

Straight below the longest splitter crack below the huge overhang in the middle of Trapezoid’s face. Find the 3 bolts, one of which is clipped right off the ground for the 5.11a starting moves.

Double cams from #00-gold Camelot. Triples on blue, yellow, orange Metolius sized finger cams. Single set small to medium stoppers. 5 QuickDraws, long slings.