Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Henry Barber, 1975
Page Views: 6,494 total · 54/month
Shared By: Brad G on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the thin finger crack to the left of Crimson Cringe. Start by climbing up the ramp. Place some gear with a long runner then turn the corner and bust up the thin crack to the anchors. There’s a rest along the way. There’s a photo of this route on the back cover of the Super Topo Yosemite Valley free climbs guide.

Location

To the Left of Crimson Cringe

Protection

Thin to about .4
To protect the moves getting into the crack take a #2 or #3 forget which. You'll know from the base.

Photos

Cleaned by Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, 1975 Jan 7, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.12-
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.12-
Start the route with an unprotected face traverse on knobs from left to right (5.8/9). Turn the corner to a chimney and a fist crack. This section protects with a #4 BD and a #3 BD on a double-shoulder length runner.

Turn back around the corner and move onto a perch and the start of the finger crack. Unclip the big cams to prevent rope drag and place a few pieces in the crack so you are safe. The finger crack eats up yellow alien and green alien sized cams. I brought 4x yellow size and 4x green size as my rack but it is possible (not necessary) to get in some larger size nuts, .5 BD and blue alien size pieces.

At the diorite knob mid-route, the route goes from straight in crack to liebacking the offset side of the crack. There are different ways to approach this section but eventually you'll want to place some gear at your head and fire that bodylength section (crux). Falls are big but clean unless you can wiggle in gear from the lieback.

Classic and safe with a bouldery crux. Dec 10, 2015
Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
  5.12a
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
  5.12a
Great route! Not very long or pumpy like most Yosemite finger cracks, but the crux is bouldery and in your face for sure, although I didn't think it was harder than 12a. For the finger crack I brought doubles from .2 - .5 BD Camalot and was happy, as well as a #3 and a 48 in runner for the start. If climbing in the summer when the water level is low, wait to climb early in the morning or in late afternoon shade. Jul 17, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
god help you if you try and layback this thing... Nov 6, 2017
A must-watch video if you want to get stoked about this climb:
vimeo.com/171190212 Mar 25, 2018
Try climbing this thing with only stoppers and hexes like we did BITD! May 25, 2018
Bill Price, that's why I figure it got the 12b grade.
A full letter grade harder if you gotta place passive pro.
You guys were badass in the olden days!! Jul 25, 2018