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Routes in Lakeside in the Woods

A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fearless Fraser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freeloader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Andrew Boyd 1998
Page Views: 621 total, 12/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Technical feet, big reaches, good jams and locks and even a crimper or two...it's got it all! Getting the pro just right is half the battle on this stupendous route. Like the book says, the hardest moves are low but if you don't finesse all the way, it'll shut you down! Boulder out the start and lean out to place gear. A few of the placements, especially at the start are hard to spot and a little finicky and some brands work better than others. If in doubt, bring crash pads and/ or toprope first. A stout lead, especially the onsight!

I disagree with what the new guidebook says about this and the route to the left...Switch the descriptions I'd say. This rig might feel more sustained.

Also, this climb and its neighbor to the left may feel hard for the grade OR perhaps many other 12's in the general vicinity are soft...

Pro: Most will be psyched on a double set of cams from .5" to .75" with 1 each to 1.25".

This route is in the middle of the wall and the right of two crack/seam lines.

Do it!

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