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Routes in Lakeside in the Woods

A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fearless Fraser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freeloader T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Andrew Boyd 1998
Page Views: 755 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Technical feet, big reaches, good jams and locks and even a crimper or two...it's got it all! Getting the pro just right is half the battle on this stupendous route. Like the book says, the hardest moves are low but if you don't finesse all the way, it'll shut you down! Boulder out the start and lean out to place gear. A few of the placements, especially at the start are hard to spot and a little finicky and some brands work better than others. If in doubt, bring crash pads and/ or toprope first. A stout lead, especially the onsight!

I disagree with what the new guidebook says about this and the route to the left...Switch the descriptions I'd say. This rig might feel more sustained.

Also, this climb and its neighbor to the left may feel hard for the grade OR perhaps many other 12's in the general vicinity are soft...

Pro: Most will be psyched on a double set of cams from .5" to .75" with 1 each to 1.25".

This route is in the middle of the wall and the right of two crack/seam lines.

Do it!

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npaolini
Vancouver, BC
  5.12b PG13
npaolini   Vancouver, BC
  5.12b PG13
Awesome route. Grade seems reasonable.

On another note.. nothing about this route looks R-rated, but once you start chatting to other people about it, it's impressive how many stories there are of people decking... Some of the gear is tricky, so some people may have just been rushing their onsight, but what I noticed is the first bomber looking placement in a finger sized parallel crack is actually pretty bad (very smooth sided), and it's quite hard to place anything else early on.

This placement looks great and would normally inspire confidence, but I found that I could actually tug the cam out of the crack with my hand even when it was placed about an inch deep! Most of the time yanking on the cam it would set, or only skate a bit on two lobes, but once or twice I actually pulled it straight out. I tried a camalot and an alien, and the "soft metal" alien was actually the first one to fully pull out.

Best of luck getting creative with gear at the beginning of this climb. I'd just recommend not expecting a cam in that first slot to keep you off the ground. Apr 28, 2018

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