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Routes in Jerry's Quarry

Ali Shuffle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Elephant Walk T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equinox T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
One Eyed Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zen And The Art Of Placement T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dennis Johnson 1972, FFA (TR): John Bachar May 1978, First Lead: Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 26,174 total, 135/month
Shared By: Steve Juhasz on Dec 29, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finger-tip jams, and the angle eases slightly. Be sure to utilize the tiny but solid edges under the crack for your feet. Just before the mantle onto the summit, you have an almost no-hands rest, and one you will want to milk! At the top, savour your send of one of the world's finest routes, at one time one of the first routes graded 5.13, (hey, they had EB's and straight-sided nuts).

It's possible to scramble around the backside, where there's usually a short piece of rope to yard up and over the top, if you want a toprope.

Protection

Despite the widening appearance of the crack near the top, the largest pro it takes is #3 TCU (or #1 friends). Take 2 each TCU's #1 and #2, one #3 and some finger sized stoppers.
Fished out a Scarpa Booster S, right shoe, in the chasm beneath the start of this climb today. Pretty well hidden. Looks new (no noticeable wear), but possibly been there for months? Years? Let me know if it's yours! Apr 27, 2017
Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
Amazing route. Seems right at the grade. Supper splitter finger lock yarding. Nov 17, 2016
Randy Leavitt made the third ascent of Equinox Crack. John Bachar did the first ascent on top rope (5.12d) in 1978. Yaniro did the second ascent in August 1980. On this ascent, Tony lead the Equinox. Jan 20, 2015
Cake compared to any 12 at the quarry. Next time il actually remember to tie in. LOL! Jan 6, 2015
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The late, great Californian Michael Reardon free soloed Equinox sometime prior to 2006. There are photos of him going ropeless on this hard crack. It would be safe to say that his was the first free solo of the climb.

There is a famous photo of honemaster Tony Yaniro flexing his veiny and muscled arm after pumping laps on it that I have seen many times. Jan 10, 2014
Alain Aleksandro De la Tejera
Riverside, Ca
  5.12c
Alain Aleksandro De la Tejera   Riverside, Ca
  5.12c
I have to agree with Jay Knower on this one. I thought it was really difficult having to lead versus on TR. There ARE solid locks everywhere, but when placing gear I had my feet cut many times while still engaged on those locks. I also had to "wiggle" cams in there instead of just sinking them in. I floated up the line on TR and had a hard time on lead. I gave it one lead go and believe it or not, fumbled with the gear quite a bit also ( I thought I did pretty awful actually). I also got sketched doing the traverse at the top...my gear was terrible. I don't know if I would throw in a grade on TR, I would much rather just recommend to anyone into finger cracks to try it out. It is incredible!!! :D

12-23-13 Tweaked my shoulder and took three weeks off since my last visit to J-tree. Went there today, ran to the climb and led clean, it went super smooth. I was nervous to start but surprised that it went without a fight. My injury may have been a blessing in disguise as I got to rest. Stoked. Dec 4, 2013
TeleRoss
San Diego, CA
TeleRoss   San Diego, CA
Got on this rig today, and man are those some painful finger locks. Such a sweet route!
Unreal that Honnold soloed that thing! Crazy! May 9, 2013
Sure looks like it Randy! Jan 7, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
is honnold free soloing equinox in this video? whatever the line, it looks awesome!

climbingnarc.com/videos/nik… Jan 7, 2012
Replaced the tattered fixed line on the back of the formation. Apr 20, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I think this is the best route in Josh. If the first 15' were less painful it would be the most fun, too. It's easier to toprope, for certain, but four grades difference is a bit overboard. Maybe two for the pain factor of the first few placements through the crux. After that it's simply pleasure. Of course, this being a crack and all, my review is rather large guy dependant. A small female friend of mine has fallen off the top and finds the bottom locker. Apr 5, 2011
You gotta love it. People saying that doing a climb on TR is the same difficulty as leading it. Pretty soon people are going to start claiming an ascent just because they looked at a particular route. Feb 18, 2011
mike c
golden
mike c   golden
now thats a crack.! Dec 10, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
that is tradass! Jun 2, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.12c
C Miller   CA  
  5.12c
Equinox on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=kHSzagy… Jun 8, 2009
RTM
  5.12c
RTM  
  5.12c
haha, not sure I agree with that! the crux is 5.12 no matter what! the bottom may be .11+, the top may be .11-, but the crux? leading it didn't necessarily feel much harder than tr, just a little concerning because if you fall you may leave a finger. My finger went numb for 3 months after one attempt! Feb 5, 2009
Brad Gobright
1994 Honda Civic
 
Brad Gobright   1994 Honda Civic
 
5.11? That stresses me out Feb 1, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I have to agree that this climb is harder on the lead than on TR. I sent second go on TR, but have yet to send it on lead. There's something about being locked off on a painful fingerlock, trying to wiggle in a cam, while the feet are skating and the arms are pumping out. That seems to add some difficulty. Oct 19, 2008
426
426  
I have to agree with *someone*, it was 11d+/- on TR with "discreet" rope tension ;)- Apr 20, 2008
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
My 2 cents: This finger crack is simply amazing. The best I have ever seen on an intrusive rock. Leading it or TRing it? Not much different in my opinion. I say this because the thing takes perfect gear everywhere. Finger size cams just fall in. There are also some spaced, but really good locks- so if you're resting on em anyways, why not just drop in a cam as well? This crack was also the most painful I have ever experienced. I had flappers on my fingers afterwards. It is brutal. Smear those feet and yard on those locks, try not to bleed out... good luck. It is as good as it gets.
Jan 2, 2008
I've heard similar sentiments about this climb not being 5.12 if on TR. Nov 7, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
If you're willing to take longish falls, there are decent locks/stances at the start, at the scoop, and above the scoop to place gear from. The gear is very straighforward, especially for a harder JT climb. Nov 7, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Placing gear is real straightforward on Equinox. I think that leading being a whole grade harder is a bit of an exaggeration. Harder yes. A full number harder, well...
Regardless, Equinox is arguably the finest crack in Jtree and one of the best fingercracks in the West if not the entire country. Oct 11, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.12c
C Miller   CA  
  5.12c
A striking splitter and one of the best pure crack routes in Joshua Tree. Toproping this can be a bit easier than leading depending upon finger size.

Originally called "Et Tu" when done as an aid route. Oct 22, 2006