All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Geology Tour Rd > Geology Tour Rd… > Jerry's Quarry… > Jerry's Quarry

Equinox

Name: Equinox
Rating: 4.0

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Jerry's Quarry

L › R R › L A › Z

	Elephant Walk T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Equinox T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	One Eyed Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Toffied Ear Wax TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	33.95435, -116.09234
FA:	Dennis Johnson, 1972; FFA (TR) John Bachar, May 1978; First Lead: Tony Yaniro, August1980
Page Views:	40,705 total · 136/month
Shared By:	Steve Juhasz on Dec 29, 2001
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The line of the route is not hard to spot. It is a unique crack up the vertical west face of the giant boulder which forms the summit of Jerry's Quarry. The start of the crack is thin fingers, and is is covered partially by a huge "ear-like" flake. Mantle onto this, and continue up the thin crack with increasing difficulty. The crux comes at about 25 feet when the footholds vanish and the face overhangs a degree or two past vertical. After this, some nice finger locks replace the desperate finger-tip jams, and the angle eases slightly. Be sure to utilize the tiny but solid edges under the crack for your feet. Just before the mantle onto the summit, you have an almost no-hands rest, and one you will want to milk! At the top, savour your send of one of the world's finest routes, at one time one of the first routes graded 5.13, (hey, they had EB's and straight-sided nuts).

It's possible to scramble around the backside, where there's usually a short piece of rope to yard up and over the top, if you want a toprope.

Protection

Despite the widening appearance of the crack near the top, the largest pro it takes is #3 TCU (or #1 friends). Take 2 each TCU's #1 and #2, one #3 and some finger sized stoppers.