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Critic's Choice
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 76
votes
Routes in Critic's Choice
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(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Acronymph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barley Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Blue Square T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ed's World (Left Variation) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Just Because T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pinch It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Refractory Period T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sugar Plum T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tom's Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Chimney S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 Flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Right facing finger corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yes I Am T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.03075, -109.60173 |
| FA: | Ruckman Bros. Extension Gaar Lausman, Brandon Gottung |
| Page Views: | 8,787 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | camhead on Mar 13, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.
6 Comments