Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Page Views: 5,155 total, 40/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.

Location

From the approach trail's topout, go a few hundred yards to the right, then look for the most classic splitter on the cliff.

Protection

You will die if you use Bloom's gear beta of only one .5 Friend. Friends Sizes: (4).5, (3).75, (2)1, (3)1.5, (3)2.5, (2)3
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Rack: (3) .3-.5 BD, (2) .75-2 BD. Extras from blue metolius to .4 BD if dogging/aiding, and you could place a third #2 BD at the top.

Stellar route. Sunny until the last couple hours of the day. Oct 30, 2017
Andrew McMullin
Boulder, CO
Andrew McMullin   Boulder, CO
Climbed this route on Oct 30. It was one of the best splitter cracks I've ever done and had an adventure element to it because it was sandy. At first the sand scared me, but I quickly realized that it barely affected my ability to jam. Fun to climb a route with no chalk on it. My gear beta is to bring plenty of small stuff up to green camalots, one red camalot and 3 gold camalots. Also, there is a decent warmup to the right that isn't in the book...a 5.10+ with a stone marker that is called "b.b.c. From cleveland.". It's a chimney to an interesting green camalot double crack to a #3 camalot finish. A #4 is optional for the top. Good chains. Nov 1, 2011
D-Storm  
A good primer for Ziji's second pitch, which is also sandy but with rattly fingers. For me, the finger crack on Critic's Choice was more like flared tips than the sinker locks I usually get on yellow-Alien/Metolius-sized cracks. Apr 14, 2010