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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Shaun Reed, Ben Hamilton, Phil Powers
Page Views: 691 total, 27/month
Shared By: Shaun Reed on Oct 29, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

We did this route a few years ago now (2011?) and I may not have the details quite right. This route is 5 - 10 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope, around the corner. I still need to go back and put a plaque at the base, but the route has an obvious fist to OW crack roof traverse (the route's namesake) about 80 or 90 ft up that is about 10 ft long. The crack starts off the ground as fingers and slowly widens to hands before the roof, then good fists and liebacking through the roof. I think you can get by with a double rack of cams up to BD#3, then at least one #4 and #5, and probably a #6 above the lip. Crack is very clean, but we did have to pull off a 15 ft tall skinny block in the middle of the route, which is probably why nobody had done it before. The rock above the roof is a bit crumbly, but not too difficult. When I did the route, I remember my fists fit perfectly (normal size male hands) and it felt like climbing one of those peg boards we had in gym class.

Two bolt anchor at the top. I'm pretty sure a 60m rope will get you down.

Have fun!

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