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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 1,348 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Oct 18, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Right of bunny slope, short hands to fingers in a slab

Protection

tips- 3"

Photos

Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
 
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
 
we used(camalots) #0.2 (2), #0.5, #0.75, #1(2), #2(3). Super fun route! Nov 27, 2017
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
  5.10a
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
  5.10a
Very fun short climb that's atypical for the Creek. There are quite a few face and twin cracks options if you want to take a break from the "purity" of splitter crack techniques. Loose blocks section half way up the climb after the small ledge, but it's obvious enough and should be fine if you don't place gear in that section or blatantly pull on it outward... Good belay platform next to a shady pine. Sweet climb.

Gear beta: a yellow Alien placed up high in the jumbled loose blocks section provides security through the "death block" section. Apr 30, 2012
TRC
  5.10a/b
TRC  
  5.10a/b
Piece of sandstone came loose when i climbed it, fairly big one. Just under the beginning of the slanted crack that takes you to the anchors, bit to the bottom right of the climber's feet on the picture. Apr 7, 2010
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10a
This was a fun warmup, but beware the loose blocks guarding the access to the thin handcrack from the ledge. Pulling these moves, the gear to stop a groundfall was a #1 TCU placed in the hollow blocks. I doubt it would have held a fall. Nov 26, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10a
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10a
Start on top of the large rock in a finger crack and move right at the ledge. Small gear to # 1 camalots through the middle and top, with some smaller gear at the top as well. Oct 22, 2007