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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brad Jackson
Page Views: 18,987 total, 146/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

45 degree overhanging splitter offwidth. Nuff said.

Location

go left from where the trail hits the cliff, head towards the obvious inset arch.

Protection

camalot sizes: (1).75, 1, 2, 3, (2-3)4, (2)4.5, (1)5. The old 4 camalots work way better than the new c4's.
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
Add another 5 and a 6 to your rack if you think you'll 'finish' the top by aiding it... Not putting enough gear in is a real a-hole move for your second to clean.

BTW: down cleaning is a complete pain in the ass and take about as much effort as the climb itself.

(big feet really don't help. I couldn't get much of my feet in at the 'flip'. Freaking hard!) Nov 11, 2016
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I think it's more good-natured ribbing than malicious. The hard-charging off width climbing community can come off as a bunch of pricks if you don't realize they're taking the piss. And some are also just assholes. But it's really hard to tell which at first glance. Apr 28, 2016
I was curious about that as well. What a terrible description for an excellent route! Apr 27, 2016
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Does anybody know why Bloom hates Johnny Varco so much?

In the Bloom guide he says that this climb was made famous by "male model" Johnny Varco "posing" on it. I do believe that Johnny Varco was a legit badass and offwidth crusher with lots of hard hard climbs under his belt, particularly in Zion. Anybody know why the slight from Bloom? Apr 26, 2016
snowey  
Katie and Cedar

youtube.com/watch?v=5UzoMJN… Nov 20, 2007