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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Darron Reay and Agjohns, fall of 2015
Page Views: 211 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Nov 17, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A sandy ramp leads to a fist splitter. Climb that to the top of a short pillar. Worth doing for some #4 practice.
Gets afternoon sun.

Location

Find this short little romp about 50 feet right of Brutus's prayer wheel.
The pillar is marked by some recent graffiti; someone (I would guess a climber?) scratched the words "X" and "Loose" to the right of the crack. I didn't feel the pillar to be loose, but it could be cracked through at the base, so take care.

Protection

BD: one 3 and two (new) 4's will suffice. Bolted anchor

Photos

slim    
edited route name and FA info. Nov 30, 2016
Agjohns
 
Agjohns  
 
Darron Reay and I put this up last fall. Fun short intro climb for someone wanting to try out number 4s. Pillar seems stable but I did hear from one larger individual that it moves (maybe he was laybacking the 4s?).

Route Name is Short and Stout. Nov 29, 2016