Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury 4/3/10
Page Views: 1,132 total · 11/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pull onto a shelf, twin cracks up a pillar/ramp (good hands in left crack), then up the clean left-facing dihedral with fists, off-fists, and a few stacks. The meat of the climb is old #4 camalots, rattly fists or good butterflies.
This is a clean varied pitch, but it's pretty far out in no-man's land. There's a plaque.

Location

Off by itself on the far left side of the wall. About 10 minutes or so around the corner from Bunny Slope.

Protection

BD sizes--(2X) #1,#2,new #4, new #5 (3-4) old #4
Chain anchors on small stance to the right of the crack under the big roof up high.

Photos

Sean McLane
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sean McLane   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The top of the pillar is a microwave-sized block that currently shifts when you hand jam next to it. Also the #5s do not fit anywhere except in pods. I placed 4 #4s and no #5s. Oct 25, 2018