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Critic's Choice

5.12, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 71 votes
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Critic's Choice
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a super classic, super pumpy splitter. Goes from tips with quite a few feet to pumpy good fingers, a bit of off-fingers, and then a final thirty foot sprint through STEEP perfect hands to the anchors. Sometimes sandy, and usually unsullied by lame-ass chalk and tick marks.

Location

From the approach trail's topout, go a few hundred yards to the right, then look for the most classic splitter on the cliff.

Protection

You will die if you use Bloom's gear beta of only one .5 Friend. Friends Sizes: (4).5, (3).75, (2)1, (3)1.5, (3)2.5, (2)3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

shadowed
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It goes to the top...Super fun adventure, Monstrous single pitch! 175'  Reminiscent of Crack Attack, just better.<br>
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Add #1,#2 3x#3 to your sending rack..No grade change still 12-
[Hide Photo] It goes to the top...Super fun adventure, Monstrous single pitch! 175' Reminiscent of Crack Attack, just better. Add #1,#2 3x#3 to your sending rack..No grade change still 12-
Jonah on his impressive effort getting into the easier stuff
[Hide Photo] Jonah on his impressive effort getting into the easier stuff
Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic's Choice.
[Hide Photo] Buttshot of me gunning it to the anchors on Critic's Choice.
J.A. preparing for an eventual ass-kicking on Critic's Choice.
[Hide Photo] J.A. preparing for an eventual ass-kicking on Critic's Choice.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D F
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] A good primer for Ziji's second pitch, which is also sandy but with rattly fingers. For me, the finger crack on Critic's Choice was more like flared tips than the sinker locks I usually get on yellow-Alien/Metolius-sized cracks. Apr 14, 2010
Andrew McMullin
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on Oct 30. It was one of the best splitter cracks I've ever done and had an adventure element to it because it was sandy. At first the sand scared me, but I quickly realized that it barely affected my ability to jam. Fun to climb a route with no chalk on it. My gear beta is to bring plenty of small stuff up to green camalots, one red camalot and 3 gold camalots. Also, there is a decent warmup to the right that isn't in the book...a 5.10+ with a stone marker that is called "b.b.c. From cleveland.". It's a chimney to an interesting green camalot double crack to a #3 camalot finish. A #4 is optional for the top. Good chains. Nov 1, 2011
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
[Hide Comment] Rack: (3) .3-.5 BD, (2) .75-2 BD. Extras from blue metolius to .4 BD if dogging/aiding, and you could place a third #2 BD at the top.

Stellar route. Sunny until the last couple hours of the day. Oct 30, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Footwork is critical throughout the crux which, in my opinion, is the flared .3 Camalot tips jamming/palm smearing above the entry moves. Stellar movement down low followed by an incredible sprint to the anchors on perfect hands. Rack for me: 3 .3, 3 .4, 2 .5, 1 .75, 2 #1, 3 #2 Camalots. Dec 22, 2018
[Hide Comment] A great, great pitch. Compared to a bunch of other 12's around (Slice and Dice, the Pastafarian, Power Line, etc.) this thing's soft as a baby's bottom. Or else, my fingers just fit better. On my go, the crack was not very sandy, but had a few tick marks. Oh well. Oct 1, 2020
Bolting Karen
La Sal, UT
[Hide Comment] Wow what a route. Doubles from .3-2 bd with an extra .3 and .5 would work great. Maybe another 2 if you wanted. Mar 19, 2022