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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,450 total, 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Hand to fist crack, a little crumbly.

Location

On the yellow and white horizontally striped wall to the right of Bellyfull 200yds. The two routes in the same alcove still have shit anchors.

If you read your guidebook for "Life" you will get to this route. Life is no longer there, it fell down. What remains is a surprisingly good hand to fist crack.

Protection

In Oct 06' I pulled the anchor (4"x1/2" rawl, hanger stamped "Comp Wall") out by hand. The new FA (I'm assuming "life had different anchors that fell off with it, these new bad anchors were placed on the freshly exposed rock) had drilled very poorly on softer than average rock. Since that time people have been rapping off my cam and leaving a note that you'll die if you climb this. I put in a 2 bolt anchor with a little glue in March 07. Because of the softness, I don't know how long the anchor will hold up. The route takes hand to fist size cams.

Photos

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
RIP Life... Glad you didn't take me with you! Oct 24, 2010
Ahhh, mystery solved. Nov 23, 2009