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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,439 total, 80/month
Shared By: camhead on Mar 13, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Super long, low-angled perfect hands in a corner.

Location

from the approach trail's topout, head left, past the "Belly Full of Bad Berries" arch for a few hundred feet.

Protection

8-10 gold camalots, a few reds, maybe a blue.
Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
 
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
 
our 80m rope JUST made it! Nov 27, 2017
80 meter rope is a must, or use two ropes! 70 meter left me about 25 feet off the deck. Oct 3, 2017
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
placed BD 0.5-0.75 at bottom, then three red #1 plus six yellow #2 with couple of mild runouts (or eight to keep reasonable). could add an optional #3 before the chains, but didn't feel like a must Oct 15, 2016
Kelsey Sheely
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Kelsey Sheely   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Awesome climb! Perfect for building confidence on sustained terrain.

There is a beautiful looking long corner to splitter between here and Ed's World. I couldn't tell if there were anchors at the top. Has anyone climbed up there? Oct 8, 2013
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
  5.9
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
  5.9
Sustained perfect hand crack that goes on forever (almost like the little sister of Incredible Handcrack, but without the roof!) Super sweet. And Sustained. Takes a few small cams at the bottom, and mucho #2 gold camelots (8 to 10+ pieces depending on your comfort level). Plus one #3 right before the chains.

It's more like 5.9- in terms of technical difficulty but the incredible sustained nature of the climb makes it a solid 9 for sure. A sweet delight. May 1, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Mixed feelings about this one. It is a decent route and one of the few .9s at Indian Creek so it draws a crowd, but I found it terribly painful on the feet. Easier on the shoulders sure but that off vert ramp was more discomfort than fun for me.

Also, I recall it being more blue camalots than the one suggested here. Tougher for the small handed crowd. Dec 20, 2011
Kitty Pimms
  5.9+
Kitty Pimms  
  5.9+
Wonderful confidence booster for someone new to cracks.(Also one of the more mellow approaches. Be sure to take the SECOND trail past the CC campsite, past the first big wash, through the desert just a bit. Good cairns the whole way!) Butter hand crack love for the rest of us! Love, love the tight hands on the first section. Get there early for good pics, as the dihedral gets early afternoon shadows. Yum yum, give me some!:) Nov 29, 2011
David Kozak
  5.9+
David Kozak  
  5.9+
This is a really fun climb. Take one or two blues for good measure. My 8 year old daughter Sasha had a blast on it. Nov 10, 2009
Dynomight510
  5.9
Dynomight510  
  5.9
Unbelieveable! A narrow hand crack on a vertical section leads to a looong sloped dihedral with a perfect hand crack. Ooohh that belay. Sustained. Solid for the grade Sep 11, 2009
FA: Tim Coats and ? May 2, 2009
Wolfski Wolf
slc, ut
 
Wolfski Wolf   slc, ut
 
really fun mellow 5.9. all hands all the way Apr 29, 2009
take a lot of #2 camalots and a few 3s. A couple small cams works for the lower portion, Dec 3, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9+
Great route and quite sustained. My right foot was feeling it after all the non-stop foot jamming. Sep 16, 2008
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.9+
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.9+
.75 camalots protect the opening moves. Oct 22, 2007