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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: DF
Page Views: 575 total, 11/month
Shared By: Devin Fin on Oct 22, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

the whole run fingers to thin hands OW fist's squeeze roof jam's stemming all of it

Location

50 yds right of Critic's choice

Protection

1.5-#6 camlot double on the #3 camlots

Photos

R Sather
COLORADO
  5.10
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.10
I thought this was a great route and made me remember the creek isn't always about plugin' & chuggin'. I think I had preconceived ideas about the grade and being able to on-sight 5.10 in the creek, but I should have known a route named "Wrench" would pack a punch. The Wrench Route isn't necessarily a "perfect splitter" but holds some great movement and architecture. When it gets down to it is just burly climbing. The rack recommendation was pretty spot on, however, I doubled up on the #6s. I knocked out my first #6 as I climbed past the initial crux entering the chimney. Also getting to the anchor I knocking out my other #6 as I climbed past(perhaps bad technique/ fear thruching). I might recommend a Big Bro equivalent instead of doubling up on the #6s. It could help keeping the rope from pulling on your gear as you enter the chimney; just a thought. Thanks again DF for putting in the time! Looking forward to scoping out more of your routes in the future. Apr 21, 2017