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Routes in Critic's Choice
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(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Acronymph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barley Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Blue Square T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ed's World (Left Variation) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Just Because T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pinch It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Refractory Period T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sugar Plum T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tom's Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Chimney S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 Flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Right facing finger corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yes I Am T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.03075, -109.60173 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,004 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Cody Goldberg on Mar 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Left of Ed's world about 60 feet, you'll find a marvelous big hands to fists to offwidth crack in a right facing dihedral. In the guidebook it's listed as Blue Square (5.10), so that's what I'm posting it here as. Start between a boulder and the wall up on a pedestal and climb teacups and fists up bomber stone till you get to knees, then wings and eventually a squeezy tunnel where you can breathe the finest dust the desert has to offer. Grovel up through and enjoy the view! Well protected and a blast from bottom to top. Would be 4 stars if the anchors were placed better and the ending grovel wasn't so dirty.
Protection
Needs a 70m to lower. Highly recommend taking around 30 feet of cord to extend the anchor to keep your rope a bit cleaner. Our rack was (2)2s, (6)3s, (1)4, 5, and a 6 will make the route as comfortable as you can make it. Don't believe the guidebook recs for a 60m rope and lots of 4s and 5s. Metolius pieces between bd 3 and 4 are great here too.
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