Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 368 total · 22/month
Shared By: Cody Goldberg on Mar 13, 2020
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Left of Ed's world about 60 feet, you'll find a marvelous big hands to fists to offwidth crack in a right facing dihedral. In the guidebook it's listed as Blue Square (5.10), so that's what I'm posting it here as. Start between a boulder and the wall up on a pedestal and climb teacups and fists up bomber stone till you get to knees, then wings and eventually a squeezy tunnel where you can breathe the finest dust the desert has to offer. Grovel up through and enjoy the view! Well protected and a blast from bottom to top. Would be 4 stars if the anchors were placed better and the ending grovel wasn't so dirty.

Location

The best-looking splitter between Ed's world and bunny slope. Right facing dihedral.

Protection

Needs a 70m to lower. Highly recommend taking around 30 feet of cord to extend the anchor to keep your rope a bit cleaner. Our rack was (2)2s, (6)3s, (1)4, 5, and a 6 will make the route as comfortable as you can make it. Don't believe the guidebook recs for a 60m rope and lots of 4s and 5s. Metolius pieces between bd 3 and 4 are great here too.

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