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Blue Square

5.10, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Critic's Choice
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Description

Left of Ed's world about 60 feet, you'll find a marvelous big hands to fists to offwidth crack in a right facing dihedral. In the guidebook it's listed as Blue Square (5.10), so that's what I'm posting it here as. Start between a boulder and the wall up on a pedestal and climb teacups and fists up bomber stone till you get to knees, then wings and eventually a squeezy tunnel where you can breathe the finest dust the desert has to offer. Grovel up through and enjoy the view! Well protected and a blast from bottom to top. Would be 4 stars if the anchors were placed better and the ending grovel wasn't so dirty.

Location

The best-looking splitter between Ed's world and bunny slope. Right facing dihedral.

Protection

Needs a 70m to lower. Highly recommend taking around 30 feet of cord to extend the anchor to keep your rope a bit cleaner. Our rack was (2)2s, (6)3s, (1)4, 5, and a 6 will make the route as comfortable as you can make it. Don't believe the guidebook recs for a 60m rope and lots of 4s and 5s. Metolius pieces between bd 3 and 4 are great here too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A better shot of the starting location
[Hide Photo] A better shot of the starting location
Pinto gives the thumbs up on the wonderful Blue Square
[Hide Photo] Pinto gives the thumbs up on the wonderful Blue Square

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Elena Pocs
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Could not find anchors. Someone’s tick said “they are around the back side of the visible roof”. I stuck my head in and tried to look, but couldn’t see them. Felt too committing to climb into the roof, last placement was a pretty tipped out #6, ended up down-leading the route. Fun route except for the last ~20 ft of flaring offwidth. Apr 23, 2021
Cody Goldberg
Denver, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Elena, yes, the anchors are way up there. You need to struggle through the roof, burrow up behind it and go another 15 or so vertical feet. The anchors aren't in the best spot, but they're there. Def can't see em without crawling through and scrambling up Jun 3, 2021
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Anchor is in the wrong spot, causes so much rope drag its almost impossible to lower.. I've heard a few horror stories of people trying to get off this thing.. just a fair warning. Nov 29, 2022
Darren Smith
Mancos, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Just wanted to reiterate the issue with the anchors. Bring very long cord to extend over the edge.
Also it is curious that I think there are two ways to finish this: the roof way (which I did), or going through a tunnel??

I wonder if there is an anchor straight up from the ledge at the top? It looked like a #0.5 would be needed to reach that next area which I didn't bring (blue big bro too maybe). I think it would be good to confirm there is nothing up there, and then chop/move current anchor. Or maybe it was meant to be belayed from above and rappelled? Nov 19, 2023