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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dan and Kelly Wright
Page Views: 2,960 total, 24/month
Shared By: IanA on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Fingers to hands to fists in a left facing flake.

Location

In between Life and Rite to Life

Protection

.5, .75, 1, 2, (3) 3, & (3) 3.5 or new 4's Camolots

Photos

khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
definitely bring a #4 Nov 29, 2011
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Anchor is still good but this route is a major sandbag at 5.10 unless you have massive fists. For my mitts (which were just a little to small) this ended up being a major fight of hand stacks and crappy arm bars. Apr 18, 2011
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
John L

thanks for the new bolts... might try climbing this one next week. i assume u rapped off the 2 new bolts you placed and all looked good (for now)...? May 7, 2009
Yep, it was within the last few years. The block that fell off was where Life and Rite to Life used to be. Apr 19, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.10+
Aeon Aki    
  5.10+
This is an absolutely beautiful line on a very unique piece of stone. if your hands aren't gorilla sized, this is either a boxing match or a swimming exercise.

Does anyone know when whatever used to be in front of this crack fell off? It looks like a recent collapse. Mar 23, 2008