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Routes in Critic's Choice

(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Acronymph T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
BBC from Cleveland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Barley Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Just Because T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 2002
Page Views: 658 total, 10/month
Shared By: nick.laws on Apr 30, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).

I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.



A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet off the ground. Easy down climb.

Location

This route is right of the leaning pillar located where the approach trail meets the wall. Look for the twin crack start above a few feet of ledgy, easy climbing. The right crack arches to the left to meet the anchors. Climb the left crack once they diverge.

Protection

The first half takes a few BD 2's & 3's with one smaller piece in the start. From the good ledge the crack behind the flake starts 3" and quickly goes 4" and then 5". There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Shane Martin Smith
Pagosa Springs, CO
  5.10+
Shane Martin Smith   Pagosa Springs, CO
  5.10+
MY THOUGHTS: This route was very fun with a great variation of climbing. Stemming and light jamming in the start with good rests and then a sort of mantle move up on to a ledge just before the OW starts.

CONDITION: As of Oct/30/2016 there is a good bit of piled up rock a little less than half way up the route. I accidentally knocked out a few blocks and tossed out a few spooky pieces but there is definitely still some left. I'd highly recommend your belayer wheres a helmet.

Also, the guano was pretty bad on the ledge before the OW and after the OW. It's secure up top, so wiping it off and working around it wasn't horrible but pulling up on to the first ledge and trying to work through the guano was kinda lame but if this awesome route keeps getting traffic, all will be well.

GEAR: I took all New BD, 1x .75 / 1x #1 / 3x #2's / 3x #3's / 2x #4's / 2x #5's
(Take an extra .75 or maybe #1 & a long sling for the top section after the OW to the anchors) I had no gear left after the OW and probably had a 15' run out to the chains and with all the guano is made me a bit nervous of slipping although the climbing is 5.8

Anchors looked great and 70M is a must and will get you to the ledge just before the ground with an easy down climb.

This route was excellent! Lot's of good rests with a great variation of climbing. Oct 31, 2016
FA by Matt Barley and Andrew Christiansen in April 2002 Jul 25, 2013