Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 2002
Page Views: 1,165 total · 10/month
Shared By: nick laws on Apr 30, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).

I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.

A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet off the ground. Easy down climb.

Location

This route is right of the leaning pillar located where the approach trail meets the wall. Look for the twin crack start above a few feet of ledgy, easy climbing. The right crack arches to the left to meet the anchors. Climb the left crack once they diverge.

Protection

The first half takes a few BD 2's & 3's with one smaller piece in the start. From the good ledge the crack behind the flake starts 3" and quickly goes 4" and then 5". There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos