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Routes in Pirate's Cove

As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Black Panther S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Indian Summer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mutiny S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.10a T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed SL 7 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,089 total, 48/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details


One of the few truly splitter cracks in the area. A must do! Start by pulling an overhang using a hand crack. Follow the splitter line to the top. As you near the top, there are a few face holds that you can stem your feet on, but not many.


You can see this crack from the bridge as you drive from the New to the Summersville parking area. Descend to the Pirate's Cove and pass Mutiny, and follow the cliff band as you head toward the Coliseum. It will be the first really splitter crack that you'll see under a roof. You can only access this climb during low water.


Hand size pieces to start and decreasing sizes as you continue. Finishes with tight fingers sized stuff. One shut and a new bolt anchor with a rap ring.


Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
cool, much appreciated Aug 5, 2016
Should be fine in early sept. Check here for daily updates and historical info:… Aug 5, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
how likely is it that the base of this route is NOT under water in early september? Aug 4, 2016