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Routes in Pirate's Cove

As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Black Panther S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Indian Summer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mutiny S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.10a T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed SL 7 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 7,360 total · 52/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nevertheless.


6 bolts to cold shuts. If you don't have a stick, or can't reach the first from the ground, a #3 Camalot fits nicely in the horizontal before the first bolt. The climbing up to there is relatively mild.


Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Pretty soft for 11c, just saying. Nov 11, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
Those last moves though- if you don't cheat and venture left to the arete...

Felt like .11c to me. Though, I'm no Chris Whisenhunt- and Mike gives it .11d. Oct 22, 2015
Dyl Alv  
Anyone done this route out of a boat in high water? Could make for an incredible photo... Aug 29, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
Jacob Sustrich  
Dylan, general consensus I've heard is that DWS on this one is a no-go due to submerged boulders. Unless you're meaning to belay from a boat. Sep 13, 2016
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
I think the 11d given in the guidebook is definitely legit, if you stay on the face at the last bolt and don't wander out left. That is a looooong move off a very tiny hold! Sep 19, 2016
David Haak
Indianapolis, IN
David Haak   Indianapolis, IN
Definitely 11d if you stay in the bolt line for the super cool and technical finish. Going out left of the arete looked easier and off route, and with bad fall potential. 5 days ago

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