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Routes in Pirate's Cove

As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Black Panther S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Indian Summer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mutiny S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 5.10a T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed SL 7 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 7,087 total, 54/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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40 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nevertheless.

Protection

6 bolts to cold shuts. If you don't have a stick, or can't reach the first from the ground, a #3 Camalot fits nicely in the horizontal before the first bolt. The climbing up to there is relatively mild.
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
 
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
 
I think the 11d given in the guidebook is definitely legit, if you stay on the face at the last bolt and don't wander out left. That is a looooong move off a very tiny hold! Sep 19, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
  5.11b/c
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11b/c
Dylan, general consensus I've heard is that DWS on this one is a no-go due to submerged boulders. Unless you're meaning to belay from a boat. Sep 13, 2016
Dylan Alvarez
Baltimore, MD
Dylan Alvarez   Baltimore, MD
Anyone done this route out of a boat in high water? Could make for an incredible photo... Aug 29, 2016
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
 
Those last moves though- if you don't cheat and venture left to the arete...

Felt like .11c to me. Though, I'm no Chris Whisenhunt- and Mike gives it .11d. Oct 22, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
Pretty soft for 11c, just saying. Nov 11, 2014