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Areas in West Virginia

Barboursville Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Bear Haven 0 / 0 / 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Bear Rock Lake Bouldering (Wheeling) 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Bluefield Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bozoo 95 / 8 / 50 / 231 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 347
Camp 70 Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Coopers Rock State Forest 11 / 0 / 10 / 125 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 140
Creek Side Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Devil's Nose 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Eagle Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Fort Hill Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Franklin Gorge 3 / 70 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 72
Harpers Ferry 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Indoor Gyms 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Kanawha State Park 0 / 0 / 4 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Long Mountain 30 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Nelson Rocks 6 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
New River Gorge, The 474 / 791 / 41 / 64 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1331
North Bend State Park 7 / 6 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Pioneer Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Reeds Creek 3 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Seneca Rocks 279 / 21 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 291
Smoke Hole Canyon 5 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Spruce Knob 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Sutton Lake 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wheeling 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 999 ft
GPS: 38.069, -81.081 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,877,226 total · 12,997/month
Shared By: Ladd on Sep 3, 2006 with updates from Matt Leasure
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

This is a state with so much climbing, please contribute your experience/knowledge...

Every contribution is appreciated.

Description

West Virginia is full of great climbing destinations, from local crags to Seneca Rocks to the The New River Gorge with 3000+ routes. Excellent sport climbing, bouldering, single and multi-pitch trad climbing can be found in The Mountain State.

The rock ranges from bullet-hard sandstone, to quartzite, to gritstone, to kitty-litter cliffs. If you are a granite junky, don't come to WV for granite, but come to cut your teeth on some awesome sandstone in the The New River Gorge. The sandstone is as hard as granite but has many more interesting features than your average granite cliff will afford.

Ultra-Uber-Classic climbs in the state range in grade from Old Man's Route(Seneca, 5.4) to Ride The Lightning(NRG, 5.13b/c). There is something for every climber in West Virginia.

The best times to visit are Spring(March-May), and Fall (September-November)

Come for the climbing, bring a banjo and a book for the weather.

Getting There

As far as getting to West Virginia...It shouldn't be hard to find. It is West of Virginia.

It is a state, there are only 50, learn them, know them...and don't confuse West Virginia with Virginia, it irks me...

Guidebooks for West Virginia

Mike Willams's Second Edition New River Gorge Guidebooks
A complete resource for routes in the New River, Meadow River and Summersville/Gauley areas.

Tim Toula's Rock and Road;s=books&qid=1180104188&sr=1-1
Provides comphrensive directions to get you pretty close to most all of the climbing areas in the state. Most of his advice for classics and locaions to visit is still true even though this book is badly outdated.

Rick Thompson's New River Rock;s=books&qid=1180104289&sr=1-1
Most of the Information is good, and most climbers that have been clibing here for a while use this guidebook, althought it does not have the most current information, and doesn't include al the areas that Steve Cater's newest guidebook does. The upside to RT's book is that his route descriptions are better and he includes FAs and route history.

Steve Cater's New River Gorge, Meadow River and Summersville Lake Rock Climbers' Guidebook;s=books&qid=1180104427&sr=1-1
This is the most up-to-date climber's guide out there for the NRG, Summersville, and Meadow River areas. Cater doesn't always know how to count bolts(I know he doesn't personally do it) and he doens't include much(if any) history or FAs. He does include more than RT's book, and the directions to get places are better. The maps and topos are awesome!!

Eric Horst's Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland
Is better than nothing and if you are familar with this style of book, then you should know what to expect. Some areas are included, some maps, some directions, but not all you want. Better for WV than the Rock and Road but not as good as others.

Dr. Topo's Summersville Lake guidebook
It isn't that great, but it is free!

FR Robinson's Seneca Rocks: A Climber's Guide
An older guidebook, most of the projects described have been done, but most of the classsics are listed within.

Franklin Guidebook.
Doesn't exist outside of Eric Horst's book, his descriptions, and topos are less than acurate. Try the above listed online guidebook.

Mike Gray's Reed's Creek Guidebook
Complete guide with maps and route photos. A physical copy of Gray's guide to climbing in Smokehole Canyon is hard to come by, but it's quick and easy to find and use on Rakkup.

Gray and Johnson's Long Branch and Guide Walls Guidebook
Complete guide with maps and route photos. This second of two books on Smokehole Canyon climbing is hard to find in print but easily available on Rakkup.

The Incomplete guide to Cooper's Rock
Never really panned out.

Remember to never underestimate the importance of having a local along with you if you come to visit. A local might be able to save you many hours of wasted approach time/climbing bad-routes time. Don't be scared by the locals, ask one to come with ya' for a day, it'll help you get the most bang for your time.

2,340 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Virginia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 191
Gunsight to South Peak
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 113
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 212
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 117
Super Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 91
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 86
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 211
Legacy
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 235
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 113
Coffindaffer's Dream
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 140
Aesthetica
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 128
Scenic Adult
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 138
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 86
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 95
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face
 191
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak Direct Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face
 113
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Four Sheets to the Wind New River Gorge > … > Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 212
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Super Crack New River Gorge > … > Beauty Mtn > 7) Thunder Buttress
 117
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Marshall's Madness - Crack… Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Burning Calves New River Gorge > … > Beauty Mtn > 5) Burning Buttress
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 86
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Legacy New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 211
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed New River Gorge > … > Summersville La… > Satisfaction Wall
 235
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Coffindaffer's Dream New River Gorge > … > Upper Meadow > Third Buttress
 113
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 140
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Scenic Adult New River Gorge > … > Kaymoor > Seven Eleven Wall
 128
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way New River Gorge > … > Summersville La… > Long Wall
 138
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco New River Gorge > … > Lower Meadow > Toxic Hueco Area
 86
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler New River Gorge > New River Gorge… > Cotton Top
 95
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Virginia »

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Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
Just for the record Deliverance was not filmed in West Virginia and has nothing to do with West Virgina. According to the plot it was filmed along the fictional "Cahulawassee river" which was actually on the Chattooga River in Georgia. Never-the-less great write up Ladd.

Description:
"Due to rainy weather, crazy locals, a depressed economy, and Deliverance most climbers don't ever consider West Virginia much of a climbing destination. However, West Virginia has some of the best climbing on the east coast and is definitely worth a visit, if not a stay." :-) Nov 23, 2007
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
"Due to rainy weather..."

We just came out of a three-month dry spell which began to border on last year's drought. WV, lke most other places on earth, gets a lot of rain in the spring and pretty dependable precip in the winter. It is steep and rocky, so it doesn't dry out as fast as the desert, but I climbed on dry rock for the last two days after a week of rain every day (which was the end of the dry spell, and not a routine event).

"...crazy locals..."

Trying to remember the last time one of our crazy locals killed a large chunk of his high school or college classmates, blew up a vanload of explosives under a federal building, or collapsed a global economy with alternative-reality banking and stock-trading practices. The per capita level of crazy is actually lower in WV than in the rest of the world... don't kid yourselves.

"... a depressed economy..."

Which comes mainly from the fact that D.C. and NoVA climbers will readily pony up thou$sand$ to fly to Viet Nam or Costa Rica (where it DOES rain all the time and the locals ARE crazy) but can't be bothered to buy gas, groceries, or local crafts and goods when they're three or four hours from home.

"...and Deliverance..."

See notes above... people who think Deliverance was filmed in WV need to watch the cradits at the end of the movie... it tells you all the locations used and none of them is in WV.

"... most climbers don't ever consider West Virginia much of a climbing destination."

Which would suit us local climbers just fine- nothing like a lifetime supply of untouched new rock- if it weren't for the fact that, despite what Dubya said, the state of our economy is NOT strong, and hasn't been, locally, for a looooong time. Funny how you folks in the other 49 are panicking now that your world has started to look a lot like the view from most WV front porches. Help yourself and help WV... forget the airport and the West Coast... come climb WV!

"West Virginia has some of the best climbing on the east coast..."

Talk about damning with faint praise... I've spent a week or two at most of the major crags in the country and I can state this without reservations- WV has some of the best climbing in the United States. Come, enjoy, and discover a forgotten gem of nature and stone in your back yard, within easy reach of hotels, airports, convenience stores, satellite TV, crime, streetlights, gridlock and all that other stuff y'all seem to need to survive.
Sep 29, 2009
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
Best camping for Franklin Gorge: Thorn Springs Park and Campground. Take 33 West from the crag entrance on River Gap Road. Turn left at the 33W/220N intersection light, and follow 220 south for three miles to Dry Run Road, at the old Pendleton Co. Industrial park, now home to the DMV and DHHR.

Turn left on Dry Run (since turning right means an instant collision with a steep bank) and follow around a bend, past a gorgeous bed and breakfast (up for sale) and a set of tantalizing limestone cliffs (on private property, and we've already done that once, so look and wish but DON'T). a quarter-mile from the intersection, the campground is on your right. Last time I was there you could rent a bunkhouse with kitchen, bath, and woodstove for $49/night... which isn't bad divided between the 8 people these places will accomodate.

Now you are 15 minutes from the crag, with the Korner Kafe on your way for very affordable fare every day of the week if you don't feel like cooking, or the Great Valu just 100 yards north of the light on 220 if you need groceries.

(304) 358-7737
pendletoncounty.net/LZpages… May 19, 2012
Can anyone tell me whatever happened to route development at Greenland Gap, WV?
BITD (1967-1974) we discovered and developed this area with about 100 routes 5.2 to 5.10 on solid rock very similar to the horizontal banding of the Gunks. Routes were mostly two pitches. We kept a "guidebook" notebook of the routes and route data. I might even still have a copy. Greenland Gap is in Grant County if I remember correctly.
If you have any info, please email me at: tom@southfacefarm.com. Thnx Dec 15, 2012
West Virginia really is the East's best kept secret. I've been coming to WV for over 15 years and have yet to meet a "crazy local". The state has a nice mix of people who have moved to the area for a life of mountain air, locals who are really quite friendly, and out of state people who love coming to wild places for the weekend. I pass up Shenandoah NP every weekend for West Virginia. Mar 22, 2013
Ronin Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
Ronin Gray   Smoke Hole Canyon
A West Virginia fire, started over the weekend by burning brush and sustained by high winds, has spread and doubled in size overnight, from 720 acres to 1500+.

The fire is burning on North Fork Mountain in Pendleton and Grant Counties and has crossed from Smoke Hole into Germany Valley, between Seneca and Champe Rocks.

The link will take you to a map showing the closure of the NF from Eagle Rocks to Redman Road.

[url]wvmetronews.com/2013/11/13/…[/url]



Although Smoke Hole Road remains open at this point, it is busy with fire crews and support vehicles, and could be closed without notice.

Franklin Gorge, which is private property, is still open... but access issues could change that, as well, soon. Nov 14, 2013
Help support Smoke Hole's first guidebook (near Petersburg and Franklin, WV)!

Check it out:

Smoke Hole Guidebook Kickstarter Link Smoke Hole Guidebook

Smoke Hole Canyon and its surrounding crags provide limitless potential for sport and trad routes in a peaceful, yet surprisingly accessible, setting. Currently, routes range from 5.5-5.13+, but you may never hear of any of these without the climbing community's support. Please consider a pledge of support! And don't forget to spread the word! Jun 21, 2014
Hi

Does anyone know if there is any bouldering at Franklin gorge wva. I did some sport routes there years ago, and I thought I read about a bouldering area there.
Anybody have any beta?

Thanks
Nic Sep 27, 2016
Chris Little
Albuquerque N.M.
Chris Little   Albuquerque N.M.
Crazy locals? I used to go up to W.V. all the time. People were always nice to us. The climbing is awesome, the locals friendly, the crags uncrowded. Go there now! Feb 16, 2018

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