Elevation: 999 ft
GPS: 38.069, -81.081 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Ladd Raine on Sep 3, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
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This is a state with so much climbing, please contribute your experience/knowledge...

Every contribution is appreciated.

Description

West Virginia is full of great climbing destinations, from local crags to Seneca Rocks to the The New River Gorge with 3000+ routes. Excellent sport climbing, bouldering, single and multi-pitch trad climbing can be found in The Mountain State.

The rock ranges from bullet-hard sandstone, to quartzite, to gritstone, to kitty-litter cliffs. If you are a granite junky, don't come to WV for granite, but come to cut your teeth on some awesome sandstone in the The New River Gorge. The sandstone is as hard as granite but has many more interesting features than your average granite cliff will afford.

Ultra-Uber-Classic climbs in the state range in grade from Old Man's Route(Seneca, 5.4) to Ride The Lightning(NRG, 5.13b/c). There is something for every climber in West Virginia.

The best times to visit are Spring(March-May), and Fall (September-November)

Getting There

As far as getting to West Virginia...It shouldn't be hard to find. It is West of Virginia.

It is a state, there are only 50, learn them, know them...and don't confuse West Virginia with Virginia, it irks me...

Guidebooks for West Virginia

Mike Willams's Second Edition New River Gorge Guidebooks
A complete resource for routes in the New River, Meadow River and Summersville/Gauley areas.

Tim Toula's Rock and Road;s=books&qid=1180104188&sr=1-1
Provides comphrensive directions to get you pretty close to most all of the climbing areas in the state. Most of his advice for classics and locaions to visit is still true even though this book is badly outdated.

Rick Thompson's New River Rock;s=books&qid=1180104289&sr=1-1
Most of the Information is good, and most climbers that have been clibing here for a while use this guidebook, althought it does not have the most current information, and doesn't include al the areas that Steve Cater's newest guidebook does. The upside to RT's book is that his route descriptions are better and he includes FAs and route history.

Steve Cater's New River Gorge, Meadow River and Summersville Lake Rock Climbers' Guidebook;s=books&qid=1180104427&sr=1-1
This is the most up-to-date climber's guide out there for the NRG, Summersville, and Meadow River areas. Cater doesn't always know how to count bolts(I know he doesn't personally do it) and he doens't include much(if any) history or FAs. He does include more than RT's book, and the directions to get places are better. The maps and topos are awesome!!

Eric Horst's Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland
Is better than nothing and if you are familar with this style of book, then you should know what to expect. Some areas are included, some maps, some directions, but not all you want. Better for WV than the Rock and Road but not as good as others.

Dr. Topo's Summersville Lake guidebook
It isn't that great, but it is free!

FR Robinson's Seneca Rocks: A Climber's Guide
An older guidebook, most of the projects described have been done, but most of the classsics are listed within.

Franklin Guidebook.
Doesn't exist outside of Eric Horst's book, his descriptions, and topos are less than acurate. Try the above listed online guidebook.

Mike Gray's Reed's Creek Guidebook
Complete guide with maps and route photos. A physical copy of Gray's guide to climbing in Smokehole Canyon is hard to come by, but it's quick and easy to find and use on Rakkup.

Gray and Johnson's Long Branch and Guide Walls Guidebook
Complete guide with maps and route photos. This second of two books on Smokehole Canyon climbing is hard to find in print but easily available on Rakkup.

The Incomplete guide to Cooper's Rock
Never really panned out.

Remember to never underestimate the importance of having a local along with you if you come to visit. A local might be able to save you many hours of wasted approach time/climbing bad-routes time. Don't be scared by the locals, ask one to come with ya' for a day, it'll help you get the most bang for your time.

3,221 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Virginia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 149
Gunsight to South Peak Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 90
Two Bag Face
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 262
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 150
Super Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 133
Burning Calves
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 114
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 287
Legacy
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 303
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 175
Aesthetica
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 192
Under the Milky Way
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 94
Disturbance
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 112
Toxic Hueco
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 134
Psycho Wrangler
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 94
Thunderstruck
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 88
Apollo Reed
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gunsight to South Peak Direct Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face
 149
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Two Bag Face New River Gorge > … > Fern Buttress > 3) Workmen's Buttress
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind New River Gorge > … > Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall
 262
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Super Crack New River Gorge > … > Beauty Mountain > 7) Thunder Buttress
 150
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Burning Calves New River Gorge > … > Beauty Mountain > 5) Burning Buttress
 133
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
 114
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Legacy New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress
 287
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Satisfaction Guaranteed New River Gorge > … > Summersville La… > Satisfaction Wall
 303
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica New River Gorge > … > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
 175
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Under the Milky Way New River Gorge > … > Summersville La… > Long Wall
 192
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Disturbance New River Gorge > … > Beauty Mountain > [Redacted]
 94
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Toxic Hueco New River Gorge > … > Lower Meadow > 2 Toxic Hueco Area
 112
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Psycho Wrangler New River Gorge > … > Cotton Hill > Cotton Top
 134
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderstruck New River Gorge > … > Kaymoor > 5. White Wall
 94
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Apollo Reed New River Gorge > … > Summersville La… > Coliseum
 88
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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