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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Rick Thompson, 1988
Page Views: 8,468 total, 75/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route! Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge. From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge. This section is the crux. From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts. Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with the bolt well below you. This climb has interesting moves from start to finish!

Location

Start on the section of orange rock about 10 ft to the left of the start of Doce Doe and about 15 ft right of the start of Black and Tan.

Protection

8 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Yueyang Meng
Stevens Point, Wisconsin
 
Yueyang Meng   Stevens Point, Wisconsin
 
What a nice line, for me the cruxy part is between the 3rd bolt to 4th bolt. I am kinda short, so I dyno it through the crux. Overall it was a very chill climb. Oct 23, 2017
James Elric
rockville
 
James Elric   rockville
 
It delivered on the 4 stars - crux was a magnificent and satisfying sequence. It rewards you with a relaxed and fun run to the chains for the last couple clips.

First 5 or so bolts provide many options for climbing style: choose between big moves to big holds or careful small moves on crimps.

Crux was spooky...tiny sparse holds and crummy feet that I did not think I had the crimp strength to manage. In the end I did not use much strength/power but needed every ounce of technique and "chill" i could muster. It was a really unique experience to have such a huge emphasis on the mental game.

Very smooth for a lead-follow and VERY easy to crank someone up with a birthday belay if they get stuck. Couldn't imagine an better route for someone looking to play around on something a little harder than they might lead on their own. Aug 14, 2017
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
I was nervous to try this route, since it was one of the harder ones I had gotten on at that point. I got some great beta from some other visiting climbers, which worked for this and many many other routes: "If a hold looks good, just toss to it!"

Such an awesome climb Jun 24, 2015