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Areas in Kaymoor

Butcher's Branch 3 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Fire and Ice Buttress 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
First Buttress 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Glory Hole, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Rico Suave Buttress 4 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Seven Eleven Wall 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Upper Kaymoor 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
White Wall 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Description

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at least a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

The GPS coordinates above are accurate. Take Route 16 out of Fayetteville, taking a left on the Gatewood Rd., just as Rt. 16 veers right. Drive through some windy curves, eventually taking a left on the Kaymoor Rd (signs may point to Kaymoor or Arrowhead Trails).

86 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kaymoor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flight of the Gumby
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rico Suave
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Tammy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Green Piece
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Low Voltage
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Springer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Steps
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sancho Belige
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scenic Adult
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tony the Tiger
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out of the Bag
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pockets of Resistance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost Souls
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderstruck
Sport
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Mo… Rico Suave Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Flight of the Gumby Butcher's Branch 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rico Suave Rico Suave Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Totally Tammy Rico Suave Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Green Piece Butcher's Branch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Low Voltage Butcher's Branch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Springer Butcher's Branch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
First Steps Seven Eleven Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sancho Belige Butcher's Branch 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Scenic Adult Seven Eleven Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tony the Tiger Seven Eleven Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Out of the Bag Rico Suave Buttress 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pockets of Resistance Rico Suave Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lost Souls Butcher's Branch 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderstruck White Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall. Jan 11, 2010

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