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Routes in Seven Eleven Wall

Bimbo Shrine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butcher Man, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buzz Kill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fairtracer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fearless Symmetry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
First Steps S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fuel Injector S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mr. Hollywood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scenic Adult S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slash and Burn S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Squirrelly Adventure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tit Speed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tony the Tiger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1991
Page Views: 3,434 total, 40/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 31, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by scrambling up to a ledge and climb the crack system to reach the first overhang. Pull the overhang and work up a flake to reach the next overhang. Traverse left under the overhang to reach a flared flake, pull up and gain a stance (crux). From here, follow positive holds all the way to the top to reach the final overhang. At the final overhang, move a bit left and climb straight up to reach a large protruding block and make the final clip. Figure out a way to get in position to clip the anchors (redpoint crux). Long runners on the anchors make this an easier send. You can also make the moves in the final overhang a bit easier by traversing way left and using great holds to reach the protruding block at the last bolt (this variation puts you in a bad fall position).

Location

This route is located on the tiger striped wall just to the left of Scenic Adult, 5.11c.

Protection

9 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Joe Whittlesey
Durham, NC
 
Joe Whittlesey   Durham, NC
 
Love this route. The traverse at the bottom can be challenging then the roof at the top and difficult clipping stance for the anchors make this fun and fairly hard. Nov 8, 2016
BrianWS
  5.11
BrianWS  
  5.11
Getting to a clipping hold for the anchors is arguably the hardest move on this climb. There are also quite a few ways to bypass some of the harder movement lower on the route - the closer to the bolt line you stick, the harder the climbing is. Mid 5.11 is pretty fair, but definitely feels easier than other more sustained routes of the grade due to the good rests throughout. Nov 3, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
  5.11c
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11c
Felt easy for the grade - I'm not a strong 11 climber at all and I cruised almost all of it until the anchors. Sep 6, 2016